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The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Cracks T 
AP Treat T 
Beast 666 T 
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 
Browns Fist T 
Cerberus T 
Effigy T 
Energy Crisis T 
Lower Refuse T 
Maid in the Shade T 
On Crack T 
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T 
Welton's Corner  T 
Whack-A-Mole T 
Wild T 
Wildabeast T 
Unsorted Routes:

Energy Crisis 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Ed Webster, Doug Madara, Jeff Butterfield 81
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: chinos on Jul 29, 2014

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Start 50' left of Whack-A-Mole (a.k.a. Sticks and Stones) or 15' left of the newly bolted line of Effigy, at a dirty headwall with left angling seams up the steepest tallest part of the lower buttress.

P1: Climb the headwall up seams (5.11a R) to the top of the steep wall and then diagonal right up an easier slab arete to a tree ledge. Belay on the left beneath the roofs. 5.11a R 100'

P2: Traverse left under the roof to a hand crack splitting the roof. Follow the cracks up the arete to the ballroom ledge. 5.9 50'

P3: Start on the right-hand end of the ballroom. Climb the crux past past two pitons (need to be replaced) and gain a hand crack in the bulge. Easier moves lead right across a slab to a thin crack and a sloping belay stance. 5.11b 45'

P4: Finish up the final finger crack on Solstice to the top. 5.8


20' left of Effigy at the AP Treat Slab area


trad rack, poor pins

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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 29, 2014

bad memories of this one.. dicey gear on P1 and broken pin eye on P3 !!

The climbing is OK though
By chinos
Jul 30, 2014

I am going to clean the first pitch soon. hopefully i will be able to get up there and replace the pins as well!

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