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Start 50' left of Whack-A-Mole (a.k.a. Sticks and Stones) or 15' left of the newly bolted line of Effigy, at a dirty headwall with left angling seams up the steepest tallest part of the lower buttress.
P1: Climb the headwall up seams (5.11a R) to the top of the steep wall and then diagonal right up an easier slab arete to a tree ledge. Belay on the left beneath the roofs. 5.11a R 100'
P2: Traverse left under the roof to a hand crack splitting the roof. Follow the cracks up the arete to the ballroom ledge. 5.9 50'
P3: Start on the right-hand end of the ballroom. Climb the crux past past two pitons (need to be replaced) and gain a hand crack in the bulge. Easier moves lead right across a slab to a thin crack and a sloping belay stance. 5.11b 45'
P4: Finish up the final finger crack on Solstice to the top. 5.8
20' left of Effigy at the AP Treat Slab area
trad rack, poor pins
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 29, 2014
bad memories of this one.. dicey gear on P1 and broken pin eye on P3 !!
The climbing is OK though
Jul 30, 2014
I am going to clean the first pitch soon. hopefully i will be able to get up there and replace the pins as well!