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Energy Crisis 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Paul Clarke & Ed Sampson, 1976.
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Steve Blevins on Jul 6, 2014

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Description 

Same start as Rusty's Cave. Work up face to right slanting crack. After crack runs out, head straight up broken obvious weakness. After a few steep pumpy moderate moves, Rusty's Cave traverses left, but Energy Crisis continues straight up the steepening wall to a smallish hanging tooth. Getting to the tooth appears to be the crux, but there are more difficulties past the tooth. At about 20' past the tooth, the difficulty eases a bit, trend left looking for the belay station anchors. There is a lot of lichen in places, but that won't be your main concern.

Location 

This route starts at the left edge of the step/col between the P-wall Pinnacle and P-wall, just to the left of Epidural.

Rappel with 70m rope.

Protection 

The protection is challenging but there. There are no protection bolts. A set of nuts and a double set of cams to blue will make the climbing less R and lower your stress.


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By David Delkeskamp
Sep 18, 2016

Worthy route. The position, length, and fun moves more than make up for the chossiness. All trad gear and only trad gear (unusual for Bishop Peak) gives EC, for me, its charm. I went left up high and finished at the "Poor Man's P Crack" anchors. A small cam can be placed as a directional about 30 feet below and 15 feet to climber's right of the PMPC anchor if you want to top rope EC from the PMPC anchors.

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