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Energy Crisis 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: H. Herr, D. Peterson
Page Views: 7,177
Submitted By: Darren in Vegas on Jul 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Teague tearing up the Energy Crisis. Photo by Mat...


A splitter finger crack and layback in a corner.


Located just right of McTech


Standard Rack

Photos of Energy Crisis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Lloyd just before the tips layback/stem fest ...
Matt Lloyd just before the tips layback/stem fest ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the crux
Just above the crux

Comments on Energy Crisis Add Comment
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By Dane Peterson
Aug 6, 2008

This is a really good line. Visible from Applebee it just beckons, and doesn't disappoint. We did this as one 71m pitch, which was a little presumptuous. Do it as two, rope management is better and you need some recoup time at the belay. Pitch 1 has a blocky start, followed by a thin corner. Mid 10. Pitch 2, the goods, is thin, slightly overhanging and sustained hard 10 climbing with a solid 11 crux. Pull that little lip, and there is another 40 ft of hands and fists to the anchors on top of McTech.
By hanshan
From: Canada Mofuga
Aug 22, 2009

You can climb this in one amazing 70m pitch.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 13, 2012

An elite first ascent team put this route up in 1979.

Hugh Herr was young and very good at freeing aid routes, before cams were available. Just after he did Energy Crisis, we attempted the Southeast Rib of Pigeon. Hugh freed the roof on the first hard pitch, and then weather drove us down. Not long after, Hugh lost both feet to frostbite and then was famous for inventing prosthetic limbs that allowed him to climb extreme routes.

Don Peterson was Royal Robbins partner on the epic first ascent of Tis-sa-ack on Half Dome.

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