REI Community
(g) Morning Glory Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5 Gallon Buckets S 
Anonymity S 
Cat Scan S 
Churning in the Ozone S 
Churning In The Sky S 
Churning in the Wake S 
Cool Ranch Flavor S 
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension  S 
Da Kine Corner S 
Dandy Line S 
Doritos S 
Energy Crisis S 
Exile On Main Street S 
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 
Gumby S 
Kings of Rap S 
Light on the Path S 
Lion Zion S 
Lion's Chair T 
Lion's Jaw T 
Magic Light S 
Magic Light Start S 
Main Line S 
Morning Sky S 
Nacho Cheese S 
Nine Gallon Buckets S 
Outsiders, The S 
Overboard S 
Oxygen S 
Ozone Hole S 
Sign of the Times S 
Sketch Pad S 
Taco Chips S 
Tammy Baker's Face S 
Vicious Fish S 
Waste Case S 
Zebra Direct S 
Zebra Seam S 
Zion T 

Energy Crisis 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Martin Grullich 4/88
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,401
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Most classic move on Energy Crisis

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This notorious route offers an excellent, gnarly boulder problem crux right off the ground, followed by 60 feet of excellent 11- cranking. Unfortunately the route seems doomed to (relative) obscurity due to its desparate appearance. However, if you're a bouldering type, this route will be an easy tick, and its all there, despite rumors that the crux is V6.

You want to start a bit right of the bolt line and make an ascending traverse to the left, using sidepulls, underclings, a mono (RH) and even some straight down crimps. You may need to dyno once or twice, but once you reach the 2nd bolt you're home free. A stick clip (or crash pad) should be considered mandatory, or set up a TR as described below.

Many folks enjoy the upper 5.11- section by lowering into it after climbing to the Magic Light anchors. This approach is highly recommended if you're not into the crimpfest. Just lower to the 2nd bolt and crank away. The rope hangs straight down over this route from the Magic Light anchor, so no need to clip intermediate bolts or anything like that.


This route is just right of the large juniper tree at the base of Morning Glory Wall. It can be easily identified by the utter lack of holds near the ground. Or, its the next line left of Magic Light.



Comments on Energy Crisis Add Comment
Show which comments
By Hans Travis
From: Seattle, Washington
Apr 12, 2017

Damn that crux is hard but damn that deadpoint crossover move halfway up is fun

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About