|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand|
|Submitted By:||Elijah Flenner on Jan 14, 2003|
|Comments on Enema of the People||Add Comment|
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Nov 10, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfortunately doesn't climb as nice as it looks. Easy start, hard to avoid the dihedral on the right, which makes you feel kind of dirty. Good crux, but the sharp pinky lock with marginal feet is a little tense. As with a lot of GH routes, the bolt placement above the crux is ridiculously reachy. Actually it isn't even reachy - you have to leave a really good stance for some tweaky moves and a screwed up clip. This really detracted from the route in my opinion.
The climbing above is unclear. I moved left to the arete, which seemed the most natural thing to do but couldn't figure out how to clip the last bolt and had to skip it. Not sure if you are supposed to go into the licheny flared crack on the right(?).
I almost gave this route a bomb, but the crux was pretty cool.