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Endless Edge 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: EFR,Clay Mansfield,JSt,Andy Bennet,'13
New Route: Yes
Season: late spring, summer, early fall
Page Views: 102
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Photo makes it look less steep than it really is. ...


This crack and face route is made for the climber hoping to test their edging and lay-backing skills. Varied in a good way this climb has close to 70 feet of yosemite like flake climbing that takes good pro. At the point you reach two bolts that are close to being side by side you will want to stay left following a bolted left angling flake seam system to a belay under a good sized roof. To finish climb up and right 5.7 or out the incredible 8 ft. roof crack to the left 5.12-. The roof involves only one or two finger locks as a chockstone creates hand holds. You can also single line rap to the anchors and just climb the roof. One the leader gets back to the anchors at the top they can drop the rap end so the second can follow the pitch.


There are some alternatives to get to the start of this route. If you have two ropes single line rappel to the ledge then climb on the second rope. Descend the main gully past the turn to the ledge. As you get near the bottom you will pass a major weakness with double cracks. Down and right of this are some slabs that lead up to a short overhanging section of rock. The second slab down has a nice little arete on the right edge. Two camo painted hangers lead to a left leaning dihedral with a hidden hand crack. This is the start of Unfathomable 12-. Just right of this is a blocky pile. This is the start of Phillipino Fighting Fish 10+. Both of these pitches end on the ledge with two bolts which is the start of Endless Edge and the second pitch of Phillipino Fighting Fish.


Gear and bolts. Take singles up to finger sized cams then double up to red camalots. Be sure and bring some long runners for that section. If you do the roof be sure to have micro cams metolius 00 to the finger sized orange. You may not need them all but it gives you options. I put a red Camelot in the back corner to keep the rope out of the way as well. One bolt over the roof.

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