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End of the Innocence S 
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 
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Unsorted Routes:

End of the Innocence 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: This has been a historic top-rope route. First sport lead, Ron Long
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,136
Submitted By: Ron L Long on Jun 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Nick on one of his first leads. Great route for a ...


This is the first route you will come across after passing the south end of the bluff.

Gain the first bolt after 15 ft of easy climbing. A longer draw on the first bolt will hang better. Climb the increasingly steepening face (slab-near vertical) right of the bolts using horizontal seams and face holds. The route finishes with an interesting lie-back/undercling move to gain ledges right of the anchors.


five bolts

Photos of End of the Innocence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy at the chains on End of Innocence.
Andy at the chains on End of Innocence.
Rock Climbing Photo: End of the Innocence to the right  Curse of the Dr...
End of the Innocence to the right Curse of the Dr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself on End of the Innocence.  Belayed by Ron L ...
Myself on End of the Innocence. Belayed by Ron L ...

Comments on End of the Innocence Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Given the well-protected and engaging climbing it offers, this route is destined to become very popular.
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

An instant classic now that it's been caressed by the drill...
By Leveille
From: Appleton, WI
Jun 29, 2007

Sweet route and the last layback/undercling move is awesome.
By James23
From: Madison, WI
Sep 19, 2007

"End" and "Curse" were both fun climbs, and the first time leader with me didn't think they were overbolted. Believe it or not, I had a great time just climbing instead of angrily calculating the # of bolts per ft...Thanks...
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great climb. The layback at the end is fun to pull. This area is just beautiful.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 28, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Had a winter adventure on the way up to do Wisconsin's High Point. Stopped here and did this climb. The crag was a little dirty, as to be expected from nobody climbing on it in a while, but none the less, was a good 1st climb of the day. Sandstone is so cold even when the sun bakes on it.
By Tyler Lawton
Nov 13, 2011

Nice fun start route. Took a group of kids down there this summer on a summer climbing and they all enjoyed it.
By Josh Olson
From: Durango, CO
Oct 8, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Going a bit right of the actual line, you can lead this sucker with gear. Definitely only something somebody would do if you've climbed at the Hollow quite a bit, but it's still a good lead.
By Jack C.
From: Calgary, AB
Oct 15, 2015

^+1 Josh. Definitely more interesting on gear.

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