||Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 450', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A2- PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 18 June 2005|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Summer, Spring, Fall|
|Page Views: ||753|
|Submitted By: ||James Garrett on Jun 20, 2006|
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View to The Thumb
Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Standard Thumb to the gully belay. Belay at a two bolt belay. 5.6, 140'.
Pitch #2: Continue in the gully on the Standard Thumb route to a two bolt belay. 5.7.
Pitch #3: Here, ascend out of the Gully onto Westwind Buttress past three bolts on a steep blank section to a thin crack/seam. The seam ends and you will pass more fixed bolts to mixed ground to a two bolt belay on a ledge. 5.9, A2. 110'.
Pitch #4. Turn the corner to the left and climb the thin steep crack and sling chicken heads and clip bolts to a small airy ledge with a two bolt belay. 5.7, A1. 90'.
Pitch #5: Fun climbing passing the knobs and 7 bolts to the end of the climb...just 15 feet below the actual summit. The rock quality deteriorates the higher up one climbs...the last pitch didn't deliver as promised...an empty plate. 5.8, A1
East Face of Westwind Buttress.
Rappel the route with two ropes.
Most pitons were left in place. Take small selection.
A small selection of copper or alu heads.
Set of nuts and microcams.
Set of Camalots to #3
Assortment of hooks.
Please be sure to wear a helmet!
The last pitch of Empty Plate drilling into the ni...
By James Garrett
Jul 7, 2006
This route was completed to the top where the rock does deteriorate quite a bit as expected....nevertheless, great exposure and position and fun climbing. Great pictures to or from S-Crack would be something for somebody. Really beautiful. Quite a bit of the aid could be freed now that the route is in, but I will wait on others to comment on the free rating of sections.
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Sep 17, 2006
I placed a couple heads, a couple of beaks and one knifeblade on the first pitch. Also found a hook hole, but I didn't bring a hook so I had to haul up a log I found in the gully to use as a cheater stick. Pretty comical. In hindsight I guess I could have used a beak in the hole, does that work in granite? All clean aid after the first pitch.
By James Garrett
Sep 18, 2006
You nabbed the second ascent of this one, too! I will have to put you on my private mailing list to get you the 2nd ascent on some fuuture ones coming up!....I didn't know you belonged to THE HANG DANGLE AND HEAD BASHING CROWD! Don't you just love placing heads? It is a part of climbing appreciated by few.