This sustained pump-fest is one of the longest routes at the North Mesa, perhaps second only to OMS
. Begin up unprotected 5.8 jugs to a good horizontal crack and clipping stance. Move up and right along the offwidth, then dive onto the sustained face. The route climbs mostly to the left of the bolt line, crimping and sloping up the obvious scoop feature. The angle lessens with height, as do the holds, which adds up to a growing pump and desperate surge to the anchor.
Unfortunately the rock isn't quite as good as it looks from the ground, but the long, sustained nature makes up for sub-par stone (by North Mesa standards).
This is the 2nd route left (NW) from Touch Monkey
, or, immediately left of Digital Pleasures (the arete adjacent to Touch Monkey.
Or, its the first route right of the "Giant Boulder" that is the base of Monkey Lust
6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. The bolts on this route were recently replaced courtesy of ASCA and the NM CRAG folks.
Peter Gram on Empty and Meaningless