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Brownies In The Basin T,S 
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Devil's Dream T 
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Empor T 
Empor Scary Variant T 
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Game, The 
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Hug, The 
Hurley Direct T 
Huston Crack T 
Indistinction T,S 
Left Huge aka The Hug Left 
Mantle Arete 
Ms. Fanny Le Pump T 
Night Vision T,S 
North Face Center T 
North Face Left T 
Northwest Corner T 
Othello T 
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Sleepy Hollow 
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Thunder Road S 
Under The Boardwalk 
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West Rib T 
Unsorted Routes:

Empor Scary Variant 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Pat Ament & Lowell Green, 1980
Page Views: 336
Submitted By: Buster Jesik on Oct 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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  • Location 

    In between the last pitch of Empor and the Northwest Corner .

    Description 

    Follow Empor to the upper wall. Instead of going left into the v notch, go straight up incipient cracks and seams. A crux move going left uses a wedged hold that is completely detached into an RP seam - be careful here. Another option is to escape to the Northwest Corner route.

    Protection 

    Same as for Empor with a couple of RPs and mini cams.


    Comments on Empor Scary Variant Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 20, 2007
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

    Can also be accessed from the 'Northwest Corner' route.
    By Cliff M
    From: Davis, CA
    Jul 21, 2008

    So I'm not sure if I accidentally climbed this route - we were shooting for Empor, but rather than heading up left into the V-notch, I headed straight up a small crack, which ended with a loose hold in a crack next to a VERY thin horizontal crack below a blank face.
    Rather than heading left, like this route seems to suggest, I headed right on the crazy-thin horizontal - basically toesmears on nothing, match on tiny crimper, and huge move right to a crimp on the far right end of the horizontal. Yellow TCU in the horizontal.
    After getting up on the small ledge to the right of the horizontal, a couple pieces up a short crack, and then another long traverse right. I ended up traversing out to the arete, to some jugs, but couldn't get any gear, and didn't want to run it out up the face, so I continued traversing around the arete to a head-sized pillar-flake, slinging that and finishing on the roof of Northwest Corner. It was probably a 30-ft unprotected traverse, which was really stupid, but I couldn't seem to figure out how to do anything else.
    Is that this route, or did I do some strange new variation?
    By SAL
    From: broomdigiddy
    Jul 24, 2008

    I think you may have been off route from the Empor for sure.
    The direct 5.8 finish to the Empor is very obvious from the v-slot ramp. If you belayed after turning the corner left on the first pitch of the Empor, there would be a 12 foot crack running straight up. It then diagonals right for about 10 ft then heads up a smaller corner diagonal left. It is very straightforward. If my memory serves, you may have been on the face left of this crack. Not sure what that is. Either way. I wouldl go back and do the above finish :)
    It is great climbing.

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