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from the first anchors
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A very big dose of calcite makes for engaging 5.9 corners on the first two pitches. The Empirical Route tackles the right facing corner separating the Rectory from the Nuns. The third pitch climbs rotten Wingate on the north side of the Rectory to the summit.
Far left side of the west face of the Rectory. The first route right of Where Have the Wild Things Gone?
Double set of cams to #3 camalot with a set of nuts for the calcite corners.
By Bill Grasse
From: Carbondale, CO.
Apr 25, 2010
Did the route 4-25-10. Loose but fun climbing with a little pucker factor here and there. Great to do once and a fairly moderate way to the top. The first two pitches were a little of everything from chimney to cracks to climbing around loose blocks so you don't knock them onto your belayer that lands you in a chimney with a twenty foot calcite hand to fingers crack/corner above. (stop at the base of this crack. no anchors or cracks for a while above the crack) For the last pitch we climbed the crack (.10-) mantled on some loose stuff and traversed to a loose chimney that ends in a twenty foot squeeze at the top. bolt anchors at top.
all in all, not to bad.