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Empire of the Goats 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: P1, RMWright, 2001 P2, Mark Tarrant, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 936
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 31, 2002

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After a long hiatus, Mark Tarrant and I returned to Empire of the Goats to finally suss out P2. This is a real lesson in what it means to have the right partners. We did some rearranging of the bolts that have made the climb much better.

P1 remains largely as it was, a decent 5.11 that has cleaned up nicely. The P1 belay was shifted entirely to what had been a lower perch.

P2 is may be the best pitch on this crag altogether. It checks in at 5.12b/c, but has some perplexing solutions that would make the on-sight seem more difficult. The initial difficulties moving through the face of the big dihedral have been brought down to the strenuous 5.11 domain. The first crux, just below the final headwall, is still burly with very tricky footwork, pretty much all on smears. A final crux awaits just before the anchors, and this may be more of a pump crux than a technical crux.

Kudos to Mark for holding it together for a red point burn early in May, 2008.


A dozen draws and a 70 meter rope. P1 runs up on half a dozen clips, while P2 needs a dozen and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 70 meter rope will touch ground comfortably from the top of P2. The older notes indicated that a 60 meter rope would just touch ground from the top of P2, and this is true, but there is very little room for error - tie the ends of the rope. It is difficult to get back into the top of P1 if rapping from the top of P2, you are just too far out to get back in.

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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 29, 2002

I went back to run the second pitch again on 8/24/02 and choked on the crux clip. So, this clip was adjusted upward and a new bolt was added just before the crux dyno. It's still difficult to clip, powerful, but nothing so creepy as before. E.D. I have your biner from this point. Also in the retro game. We had solved the sequence coming off the belay as originally bolted, but this sequence had picked up some dissatisfied responses. So here too, the initial clip was lowered and a new bolt added that can be clipped before reaching the arete. This section now has three clips getting to the arete. It seems a bit too comfy for my own taste but will make things more reasonable for a first run. Still difficult up top.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 26, 2004

Don't dump all of the junk on the ledge off on your belayer.
By Chris O'Connor
From: boulder, co
Sep 6, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

In the beta picture with power lines, this is route #2. The first pitch is fun and only about 5.10c.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 5, 2008

Mark Tarrant and I returned to this route on May 4, 2008 to finally suss out the second pitch. The route description was revised. The way it is set up now makes for a very good climb coming in at roughly 5.12b/c. It is arguably the best route on the crag and has cleaned up very well. It's a pumpy, technical climb and well worth the effort to solve.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 14, 2010

This climb starts just right of the obvious, left-leaning corner of Ram, where the trail meets the lower tier. P1 is pretty good and is maybe hard 10 with medium hard moves at the bottom and top and a reachy crux in the middle.

The anchors at the top of P1 are set way back, so you may want to rap rather than lower.

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