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Prospector Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Momma T,TR 
Canaries May Fly T,TR 
Closest Boulder 
Crack Stuffer T,TR 
Empire Crack T 
Gold Rush S,TR 
Hard Movement S,TR 
High Ore TR 
House of Cards T,TR 
Irradiance T,TR 
It Goes to Eleven TR 
Mandibular Disjunction TR 
Neversweat TR 
Practice wall TR 
Shaft, The T,TR 
Simple Math S,TR 
Sorbet S,TR 
Tap'er Light TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Empire Crack 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brian and Abby Thompson, Cody Adams
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Brian Thompson on Sep 3, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: West wall aka Sunset wall. Showing Empire and Neve...

Description 

Empire Crack takes a splintering crack line up the face of the Sunset wall. The crack is very featured, but at times deceptive. The route is nearly on vertical and though the moves are never above 5.7 the length and consistency of the route will get your arms burning. Near the middle of the route is a really fun undercling diagonal that passes a bulge with a big jug at its terminus. There is a ledge just past the undercling at about 100' that is large enough to belay from if splitting into two pitches. From this ledge move up and to the left on an easy diehedral. As the crack joins a ledge move right around a bulge and onto the exposed face above. Move though the field of ‘chicken heads’ and up to the anchors. There are gear placements in the minefield of chicken heads on this exposed 20' section. Clip the anchors or build anchors on top (more comfortable) and take in the view from the highest point at the Prospector.
Two 60m ropes to rappel off the top.

Location 

Left on the Sunset Wall. Start near the base of the large detached pillar. Work up through ledges to gain the crack.

Protection 

trad, standard rack with nuts. ~15 placements. Hangers up top.


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