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Emperor Boulder

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better Than Sex.... Porpoises  S 
Emperor's New Clothes, The S 
Empress, The S 
Parallax Wave S 
Schtick Your Sumb S 
Tide Pull S 

Emperor Boulder Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.87816, -122.62111 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,271
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Caliza on Aug 29, 2016
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This beautiful rock, standing proud at about 60-70 feet tall, resembles a massive egg that sits right at the edge of the Pacific. It's home to six lines, in an remote, scenic location where occasionally the only other people you'll bump into are climbers or fishermen. Given the recent development of this cliff, some of the climbs will feel a little loose due to the continued exfoliation of the rock. But with enough traffic, the climbs on the Emperor Boulder will become classics once they clean up and solidly.

Getting There 

Park about a mile south of the parking lot for Main Rock on Hwy 1 in a pull out that can fit 3 or 4 cars, which is the same pullout for Endless Bummer. Walk down the ridge for a minute or two coming across a mini, boulder scramble until you can see the cliff down on the right side on the shore. At first it might seem perilous to descend to the cliff, but with the correct trail and cautious steps, getting down there won't be too bad.

Climbing Season

For the Mickey's Beach area.

Weather station 3.3 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Emperor Boulder

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Emperor Boulder:
Tide Pull   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Better Than Sex.... Porpoises    5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   
The Emperor's New Clothes   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 65'   
Schtick Your Sumb   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 65'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Emperor Boulder

Featured Route For Emperor Boulder
Rock Climbing Photo: Working out the moves on a nice winter day.

The Emperor's New Clothes 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Emperor Boulder
Currently the right most route on the cliff. Starts on a 6 foot tall boulder to the right of the cliff and do a hero jump to gain a large rail 10 feet off the ground. An alternative start is to boulder up to the same rail at V7 which apparently only bumps the grade up to 5.13a. After either start, you will be met with some awesome climbing that will take you to the highest point on the cliff. Stick Clip first bolt....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Emperor Boulder Add Comment
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By jimi thornburg
Jun 22, 2017
It is indeed harder to reach the Emperor because of the highway closure, but there are still two ways to do it. Highway 1 is not closed at its junction with Panoramic Hwy; there is a road closed sign, but vehicles are allowed in to access the springs, Mickeys Beach and Steep Ravine. To reach the Emperor, drive as far south on 1 as you can and park at the pullouts where it meets the gated road leading down to the Steep Ravine Cabins (this is also where highway 1 is actually closed).

Approach 1 - Hike down the paved Steep Ravine road until you see a sign for the Rocky Point trail and follow that back up and eventually to a pullout on 1 just south of the pullout for The Emperor and follow the directions in the guidebook. Total time is about 35 minutes.

Approach 2 - Hike further down the road until you can turn left onto a grassy fire road/trail that skirts well above the cabins and leads eventually down to a cobble beach south of the cabins. From here scramble along the coast for 1/4 mile to the Emperor. Total time is about 40 minutes, and very beautiful.
By Murphski Adams
From: SLC, UT
Jul 12, 2017
Thanks Jimi :).

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