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Emla 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Howie Feinsilber
Season: Winter
Page Views: 748
Submitted By: S Tart on Oct 25, 2013

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Seth on one of the first cruxes on Emla

Emla  

This is hard 13d. Harrison Dekker said it was harder than anything he'd ever climbed and he sent 13d.

This route really takes its toll on the skin so Howie use to apply Emla (topical anesthetic) to his finger tips to soothe and mask the pain, hence the name.

When I think of Howie, I think of mutant crimp strength and meticulous footwork and you'd better bring them both to this route or it could prove to be a long and frustrating day.

Climb a short face to pull the large lower roof. Get established above the roof and balance your way through delicate footwork and small edges along the right leaning dihedral. This eventually turns into a huge undercling where you get back what you can. Enter - the crux: really steep, big moves, small holds, none existent feet. If you survive this, you can look forward to multiple low percentage mini-cruxs separated by descent rests.

Without a doubt, the most grueling route in the Cookbook.

Location 

Third route from the right off the lower platform.

Fouth route from right counting Grace Under Pressure, which starts from the ground, right of the arete.

Protection 

Bolts with anchors


Photos of Emla Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth entering the crux sequence
Seth entering the crux sequence
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth Tart on Emla
Seth Tart on Emla
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth looking calm cool and collected on Emla
Seth looking calm cool and collected on Emla
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth on the middle crux on Emla
Seth on the middle crux on Emla
Rock Climbing Photo: If you look closely, there is a rope on Emla and d...
If you look closely, there is a rope on Emla and d...

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