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Emission Control 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b X [details]
FA: Greg Davis and Dan Hare, 1984
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 938
Submitted By: David Benson on Sep 12, 2001

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Kat just about to hit the top on Emission Control ...

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  • Description 

    Emission Control starts with the first pitch of Gonzo and then breaks right across the west face, around the arete, and up the south face of the Fin Four.

    Rossiter mentions the original start, but notes that everyone usually just starts with Gonzo. Begin as for Gonzo, to the left of a large block between fins three and four. Continue the up the left-arching crack (8). With careful rope management, the first two pitches can be combined. Otherwise belay at the corner.

    Move up the left side of Fin Four and move right past the old bolt (crux) and continue to the arete. The rock immediately past the crux on the right side of the arete is of poor quality and protection is basically non-existent, but the climbing is easy (7). Continue up the arete, good gear is available about 25' up in a horizontal break (wise to double this up). Continue up the arete to the top. Belay from a single bolt at the top.

    The crux moves I feel are pretty moderate for 10d. Rossiter rates the upper section 7s, but I think it is more s/vs. Close to the top you're a good 35-40' out from your last piece of protection.

    Protection 

    Rack up to a #2 Camalot, bolts.


    Photos of Emission Control Slideshow Add Photo
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    Comments on Emission Control Add Comment
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    By Robert D.
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 14, 2007
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    A pretty good route. The crux is protected by a bolt, making it 5.10d, 5.7 R.
    By Gregger Man
    From: Broomfield, CO
    May 17, 2015

    Bolt upgraded 05/17/2015.
    By Lisa Montgomery
    From: Golden, CO
    Mar 10, 2016

    This is a fun and worthwhile route, but it is not sustained. The crux is probably pulling onto the face. Save a #2 and 0.5 for the horizontal about 2/3 of the way up.

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