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Emily's Naptime 

Hueco: V1+ Font: 5

Type:  Boulder, 18'
Original:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: Terry K.
Page Views: 232
Submitted By: Remo on May 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Rhoads getting in a little warm up.


Just left of Jameson Arete, climb up using both aretes.


Just right of Jameson Arete.


Pads Spotter

Photos of Emily's Naptime Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rhoads.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb up corner using both aretes, super fun!
Climb up corner using both aretes, super fun!

Comments on Emily's Naptime Add Comment
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By Terry Kieck
May 19, 2009

I did the FA of this in '99. My daughter Emily was born in January and when I was on paternity leave I would take her bouldering during her naptime. She would sleep happily in her car seat/carrier out of the landing zone. Hence the name "Emily's Naptime".
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 31, 2011
rating: V2+ 5+

For me, this climb has always been harder than Big Bud.
By TravisK
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 21, 2011

if you don't cover it well, that rock in the LZ will totally wrench your ankle if you hop off this problem. Yes, even under your pad...
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jun 12, 2014
rating: V2 5+

Maybe it was a high-gravity day, but this felt really hard. Oil Can was much easier.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Jun 12, 2014
rating: V2 5+

Yeah to be honest Oil Can is probably V0, but this is still very sandbagged. I say almost V3.
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jun 13, 2014
rating: V2 5+

Maybe I am missing something, being too strict (nothing outside of the aretes), or maybe because it's a little tenuous/committing and I didn't have spotters, but it felt really hard - of course maybe I am just weak.

As for Oil Can being V0, I think that depends on how far you take Jameson before you bail into it. Emily's Naptime would qualify as feeling harder than any other V1 I've done anywhere. Maybe I am missing something.

Regardless, it's fun, and the feet are very "Lake-like."
By Terry Kieck
Jun 19, 2014

Thanks for making an old man feel stronger as I age! It could be harder that V1 but I didn't intentionally sandbag it. I have it so wired now that it is hard for me to judge but it is easier for me that Big Bud. Arete's are fair game and feet are small on the face. Comparing it to other V1's at the north shore it probably is more difficult. Maybe it is a V2.

To me Oil can is a V0. I down climb it when I do the problems nearby.
By CCas
From: Chicago, IL
Mar 29, 2015

Might be a stupid question, but is the large crack on or only the faces of either arete?
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 30, 2015
rating: V2 5+


You can use "both aretes" - so you can use the left side of the crack, but not the right. In other words, no jamming the crack or stemming across the crack to the right wall. As the discussion above indicates, it's pretty heavily sandbagged at V1.


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