Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge Rock Climbing
Hallett and Flattop, Tyndall Gorge.
Tyndall Gorge is comprised of the alpine rock routes on Hallett Peak, rock and alpine routes on the south face of Flattop Mountain (The Dragon's Tail), and Emerald Lake bouldering. Easy access from Bear Lake increases its popularity (let's play Dodge the Tourist!), not to mention some stellar routes. The area has something for everyone - easy alpine cruises, long trad routes, hard ice climbing, and boulders.
[Eds. for this section, it seems reasonable to split this into Bear Lake & vicinity, Nymph Lake & vicinity 0.5mi, Emerald Lake & vicinity 1.8mi, Flattop Mt 2.5mi, and Hallett Peak, 2.5mi. You're unlikely to need GPS in this area.]
From the Bear Lake Trailhead, follow signs to Dream Lake and Emerald Lake. A 45 minute hike up the canyon on good trails gets you to the upper-most lake - Emerald Lake. The alpine routes and rock climbs on Flattop Mtn. are accesses by rock hopping around the north side of the lake. Hallet Peak is reached by traversing the slope above the south shore. Allow an hour to the base of Dragon's Tail Couloir (in the summer) and an hour and a half or more to the base of Hallett.
Weather station 9.2 miles from here
40 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge:
Featured Route For Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge
WI5-6 M6-7 Colorado
: CO Ice & Mixed
: ... : Emerald Lake & vicinity
This is one of The Parks classic ice and mixed routes. Reference Glenn Randall's "Vertigo Games" for some history and cool shots. In that book (1983), The Squid is referred to as "perhaps the most spectacular single ice pitch in Colorado".It can form as a pure ice route, or as a difficult mixed route, with two significantly different variations. The difficulties can range anywhere from Grade 4+ ice, to WI6 M7.I have climbed the route as a pure ice route and have also done the right side mixed va...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
BETA PHOTO: taken 1/2002 looking up tyndall gorge
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 29, 2002
Attempted Hallet's Chimney on Sunday. Found similar conditions as people in Dragon's Tail. Very deep snow, no ice.
By Jeff St. Pierre
Feb 18, 2003
Sunday (2/16/03) we (my two friends, Sean, Sara, and myself) headed up Odessa trail, cut off to ptarmagin glacier. Climbed up the south edge of ptarmagin glacier, crossed Flattop and came down Tyndall Glacier. 5:30AM to 3:30PM car to car. High winds on summit. Had crampons, but did not need them. Wind-packed snow in places made kick-stepping difficult, but not impossible. Alpine axes a must in my book. Harnessed up, but never got the rope out. Fairly safe route, good alpine day trip.
A wind packed layer of snow on the surface of tyndall glacier broke free... about 100 meters across, about 8 - 10 inches deep. Sean was below it, having just finished his glissade. He was just on the edge and was able to brace himself as I shouted a warning. Had he been in the middle He probably would have been swept off his feet, but doubtful he would have been burried. However, High winds coming across the divide continue to move snow onto the lee slope. Another slad broke free when we attempted another glissade towards emerald lake. Plunge stepping seems to be the better technique.
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 29, 2003
Hallett, "Bullet" is awaiting a second ascent. WI-3, M-6 this route went up a couple winters ago by me and Brad Grohusky. It is easily found below and left of Hallet Chimney, in a small flow that exits the lower left buttress at the top of the snowfield. The ice peters out about 50' up. The following rock diheadral ends at a huge roof. exit to the left, thru the crux. Hike up onto the next ledge, and find a fixed pin on the next wall to make a 200' rappel to the ground. I will try to post the topo, too.
Nov 3, 2003
My buddy Matt and I climbed a couloir next to the Tyndall Glacier last weekend. It was fantastic neve for about 800'+. We don't know if it has a name, though. Anyone have any idea about that or is it considered a branch of the glacier? High winds on top of the divide, 50-60 mph. The glacier has a lot of exposed grey ice. The only new snow was a light dusting that fell while we were there.