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EM: St. Francois State Park

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A: Overlook Wall 
B: Tre France Wall 
C: Jam Wall 
D: Thurmond Slab 
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EM: St. Francois State Park Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.96784, -90.53457 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,982
Administrators: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Hug on Sep 16, 2016
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BETA PHOTO: The birds eye view of the bluff

Description 

Welcome to short walls, sharp holds, and a boulder problem to begin every route. Climbing here is not a gimme.

The park is a good year round destination for climbing. It's shady in the summer, and if you get too hot, you can take a dip and the cool flowing Big River. This is also a great winter destination due to its South Western facing aspect. Even on some of the coldest days, if the sun is out, your guns are out.

Due to the small number of routes, it is unlikely you will run into other climbers.

Limestone is many areas around St. Louis can be of extremely poor quality, but at the park that is not the case. Upon arrival, hike up the steep trail and you will meet a bolted wall of extremely high quality rock. This is the first area. From here, head left, down the bluff line and there are there is one separate area with bolted routes you will find. The farthest area has three bolted routes with bullet-hard rock and one great looking trad climb up a dihedral.

Getting There 

Refer to the map

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 12.6 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',5],['5.11',5],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in EM: St. Francois State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for EM: St. Francois State Park:
Pump Me Up   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35'   D: Thurmond Slab
Rubens Range   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   D: Thurmond Slab
Chockstone    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'   B: Tre France Wall
Heavy Bells   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   C: Jam Wall
Onlooker   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   B: Tre France Wall
Little Trad Direct   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35'   B: Tre France Wall
Little Trad   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   B: Tre France Wall
Hittin the Vein   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   C: Jam Wall
Tre France'   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport   B: Tre France Wall
Torn Tips   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   D: Thurmond Slab
Ottomania   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35'   C: Jam Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in EM: St. Francois State Park

Featured Route For EM: St. Francois State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Onlooker

Onlooker 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13  Missouri : EM: St. Francois State Park : B: Tre France Wall
Use small holds and get to a great pocket. Throw left and catch a good hold. Cross over right and work into good jug. Pull through one more tricky section and use good holds to reach the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in Missouri

Photos of EM: St. Francois State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: St. Francois State park
St. Francois State park
Rock Climbing Photo: St. Francois Park Map
BETA PHOTO: St. Francois Park Map
Rock Climbing Photo: Simple map of the park's climbing area
BETA PHOTO: Simple map of the park's climbing area

Comments on EM: St. Francois State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By Pat0
Feb 12, 2017
Climbed here on 2/11/2017.

Upon arrival the park ranger made us drive up to the office to write our names down on a sheet of paper as a "climbing permit". He insisted that the hardware on all routes were 40+ years old and that the area was top-rope only.

When we checked things out, all of the routes looked newly bolted with Petzel bolts/hangers. Some routes had new-looking glue-ins. The anchors were very solid and looked brand new. Half-way up one route we found one of the discarded old-school hangers that the ranger had wanted us to avoid.

It would be nice to know who re-bolted this area (and when) so that we can extend our gratitude!

The ranger also told us that because the area is small he would prevent other climbers from visiting the area while we were climbing. The area has four walls with multiple routes on each. There is a lot of room here for multiple climbing groups.. disregard his advice entirely before checking out the wall. As a result of the park ranger's misinformed opinion on the status and capacity of the crag, I'm reluctant to suggest that you visit the park office before heading to the area. Tread lightly.

As for the routes, almost all feature boulder-style starts up to the second bolt with sharp rock. The climbs are relatively short (< 6 draws). There are some hard climbs here. The grades seem accurate, if not sometimes sandbagged.

It's great to have an in-development place like this close to St. Louis. Enjoy!

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