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Ellen Pea T 
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Ellen Pea 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Erik Lawson and Lee Arden Pete
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,300
Submitted By: arden on Oct 9, 2009

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p2, 10d****


1. 5.10a. 40 m. Climb left facing corner to belay stance just below  left slanting twin cracks.

2. 5.10d. 50 m.  Follow diagonal twin cracks to an immaculate, inset dihedral with a challenging thin crux towards the end.

Walk left approximately 20m to the start of the next pitch.

3. 5.11a. 50 m. Climb corners and flakes straight up to the large left-slanting ceiling/arch feature. Navigate left and up until it is possible to layback-undercling-stem the severely leaning corner crack of the arch. The crux is the exit arch, with a tricky lip sequence. A long,complex pitch.

4. 5.11c. 20 m. Undercling a short, left-leaning arch until you can pull out right on face holds. Make a difficult step up move past a second bolt and on to the "supercave".

5. 5.11b. 30 m. Exit the left side of the cave via a short overhanging wall aiming for the left-facing corner an early crux eases to fun laybacking to a pedestal belay ledge.

6. 5.10a. 56 m. Climb steep corners and ramps up the dominant weakness to the top of the wall.


Two ropes are needed to rappel. Almost every anchor is bolted. Some diagonal rappel shenanigans are needed to avoid being stranded. Alternatively top out the formation and descend strightforward 3rd class ramp (climbers left of the wall) to regain approach gully.

The above is from with minor changes.


Double cams from tips to #2 BD, wires,  extra extendable draws.


Park at milepost 166, just west of the pullout for the Burgundy col approach.

Hike directly up the gully to the base of the wall. The gully holds snow early in the season and mountain boots and crampons will help, but by midsummer the gully is predominantly scree, one steep step can be passed on the left. There is water in the gully into late summer.

After about 45 minutes, exit the gully onto a right-trending ledge. Start off the upper right side of the ledge.

(From description in with minor changes.)

Photos of Ellen Pea Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: p3, 11a
p3, 11a
Rock Climbing Photo: all pitches require double ropes to rappel.  Entir...
BETA PHOTO: all pitches require double ropes to rappel. Entir...

Comments on Ellen Pea Add Comment
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By arden
Oct 9, 2009

One can either start at the lower ledge, climbing the excellent first and second pitches, or one may hike higher and begin at the high ledge skipping perhaps the best and hardest pitch.
By Shaun Johnson
May 25, 2014

Most people know this route as "Super Cave" and those that have climbed it consider it to be one of the best routes in Washington.

I personally consider the second pitch and the "Crack to the future" variation to be some of the best climbing I have ever done.

Its kinda a joke this thing is not in a guide book...
By Travis McClinchey
From: Squamish, BC
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

What a fun route. Pitch three is a real classic!

There is great beta and topos found on Colin Moorehead's website ( and Blake Herrington's Blog (
By wayne wallace
From: Seattle
Jun 9, 2015

Did enjoy the route immensely. Wrote a little about it on my journal
Rock Climbing Photo: das uber caven
das uber caven
By Ben Gilkison
Jul 23, 2015

Managed to climb this awesome route yesterday. But, IMO, I thought the 10d second pitch was the crux of the route. Also, it seems that the massive wedged flake thing at the end of pitch 3 (where you pop out to the belay) is a definite widow maker. But objective dangers aside, this route rocks. My favorite was the last 11b pitch.

I'd grade it 10a, 11b/c, 11b, 11b, 11b. Just my 2 cents. It could be that conditions made pitch 2 harder...or that something broke.
By Ryan Hoover
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Agree with Ben on the 10d pitch! So good though.
By Shaun Johnson
May 8, 2016

This route is described in the new guidebook: Cascades Rock By Blake Herrington.

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