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M&M wall (AKA "Supercave Wall")
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Ellen Pea T 
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Ellen Pea 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Erik Lawson and Lee Arden Pete
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,890
Submitted By: arden on Oct 9, 2009

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p2, 10d****

Description 

1. 5.10a. 40 m. Climb left facing corner to belay stance just below  left slanting twin cracks.

2. 5.10d. 50 m.  Follow diagonal twin cracks to an immaculate, inset dihedral with a challenging thin crux towards the end.

Walk left approximately 20m to the start of the next pitch.

3. 5.11a. 50 m. Climb corners and flakes straight up to the large left-slanting ceiling/arch feature. Navigate left and up until it is possible to layback-undercling-stem the severely leaning corner crack of the arch. The crux is the exit arch, with a tricky lip sequence. A long,complex pitch.

4. 5.11c. 20 m. Undercling a short, left-leaning arch until you can pull out right on face holds. Make a difficult step up move past a second bolt and on to the "supercave".

5. 5.11b. 30 m. Exit the left side of the cave via a short overhanging wall aiming for the left-facing corner an early crux eases to fun laybacking to a pedestal belay ledge.

6. 5.10a. 56 m. Climb steep corners and ramps up the dominant weakness to the top of the wall.


Descent:

Two ropes are needed to rappel. Almost every anchor is bolted. Some diagonal rappel shenanigans are needed to avoid being stranded. Alternatively top out the formation and descend strightforward 3rd class ramp (climbers left of the wall) to regain approach gully.


The above is from squamishclimbingsource.com with minor changes.

Protection 

Double cams from tips to #2 BD, wires,  extra extendable draws.

Approach 

Park at milepost 166, just west of the pullout for the Burgundy col approach.

Hike directly up the gully to the base of the wall. The gully holds snow early in the season and mountain boots and crampons will help, but by midsummer the gully is predominantly scree, one steep step can be passed on the left. There is water in the gully into late summer.

After about 45 minutes, exit the gully onto a right-trending ledge. Start off the upper right side of the ledge.

(From description in squamishclimbingsource.com with minor changes.)


Photos of Ellen Pea Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 7.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 7.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 6.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 6.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 5.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Supercave.
Supercave.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Exit move on Pitch 3.
Exit move on Pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2.
Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: An ephemeral arch, it had collapsed by the time we...
An ephemeral arch, it had collapsed by the time we...
Rock Climbing Photo: Spelunking fun
Spelunking fun
Rock Climbing Photo: p3, 11a
p3, 11a
Rock Climbing Photo: all pitches require double ropes to rappel.  Entir...
BETA PHOTO: all pitches require double ropes to rappel. Entir...

Comments on Ellen Pea Add Comment
Show which comments
By arden
Oct 9, 2009

One can either start at the lower ledge, climbing the excellent first and second pitches, or one may hike higher and begin at the high ledge skipping perhaps the best and hardest pitch.
By Shaun Johnson
May 25, 2014

Most people know this route as "Super Cave" and those that have climbed it consider it to be one of the best routes in Washington.

I personally consider the second pitch and the "Crack to the future" variation to be some of the best climbing I have ever done.

Its kinda a joke this thing is not in a guide book...
By Travis McClinchey
From: Squamish, BC
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

What a fun route. Pitch three is a real classic!

There is great beta and topos found on Colin Moorehead's website (squamishclimbingsource.com/mm-... and Blake Herrington's Blog (blakeclimbs.blogspot.ca/2014/0....
By wayne wallace
From: Seattle
Jun 9, 2015

Did enjoy the route immensely. Wrote a little about it on my journal
Rock Climbing Photo: das uber caven
das uber caven
By Ben Gilkison
Jul 23, 2015

Managed to climb this awesome route yesterday. But, IMO, I thought the 10d second pitch was the crux of the route. Also, it seems that the massive wedged flake thing at the end of pitch 3 (where you pop out to the belay) is a definite widow maker. But objective dangers aside, this route rocks. My favorite was the last 11b pitch.

I'd grade it 10a, 11b/c, 11b, 11b, 11b. Just my 2 cents. It could be that conditions made pitch 2 harder...or that something broke.
By Ryan Hoover
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Agree with Ben on the 10d pitch! So good though.
By Shaun Johnson
May 8, 2016

This route is described in the new guidebook: Cascades Rock By Blake Herrington.
By Mike Dobie
Jul 24, 2017
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

Did this route last weekend. The rock is really cool looking like tiger stripes. Awesome to find black crystals in the pockets on pitch 3 and 4. Pitch 2 is rain and snow polished rock. Similar to the friction (or lack of friction) you get on river polished rock.

I would call it grade 3. The rock looks cool and the black crystals are unique! But I was surprised by the polished granite and amount of suspect flakes that needed to be navigated around for protection on pitch 3 and 4.

Pitch 5 was the crux for both myself and my partner. (maybe height dependent) It would be fair to let people know that the steep corner of pitch 5 and also the thin crux of pitch 2 to involve some finicky and specific gear. Gave me a little bit of that bold feeling on the onsight trying to find the right gear in the right spot. Specifically in pitch 5 as your gear is shared with a handhold. I found the 5.11c pitch to feel much easier in comparison to both of these pitches.

All in all a good granite rock climb that features a cave and a unique type of granite!
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Aug 4, 2017
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Awesome!

Any one of pitches 2,3,4 or 5 could be considered the crux depending on the climber. They all felt low 5.11 to me, with P5 maybe a little harder, but also my favorite. All well protected, not sure where the PG13 comes from, maybe the suspect flakes on P3?

The direct .10c finish for pitch 6 is great. Steep face and crack, a little kitty litter rock but awesome moves that feel legit when you're tired. This might be blasphemy to say but you aren't missing a lot if you skip the last 30 foot 5.8 pitch and just rap from here.

The raps didn't require much shenanigans at all (skip P5 anchor and go straight from P6 to the cave. Other than walking back along the major ledge to the top of P2. They were actually super easy because the wall is so steep and smooth.
By wakaranai
From: Mount Vernon, WA
Aug 21, 2017

Did this yesterday, excellent route with every pitch being quite memorable.

Agree that the 10d pitch seemed to be every bit as hard as anything else on the route, call it 11b.

The crux for me was actually p3 which I found to be intimidating because of its thuggery and a little bit of suspect rock, great pitch despite!

The pitch out of the cave was awesome, thankful for the magical hueco.

The 10c pitch at the top was no give away either and quite exposed.

The 11c pitch wasn't as hard as some of the others IMO but I TR'd that pitch

the beta for rappelling into the cave from the top of the 10c pitch is bueno. We easily made it with double 60's rapping down the slab was nice thank you Thad and Thanks to the FA for the hard work. Super route Super cave!

p1 10a
p2 11b
p3 11b
p4 11b
p5 11b
p6 10c

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