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Elizabeth Furnace

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Buzzard Rocks 
Talking Headwall 

Elizabeth Furnace Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 1,000'
Location: 38.94656, -78.30231 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 77,458
Administrators: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: franciscov on Nov 22, 2007  with updates from NatP and 1 more
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BETA PHOTO: Trail head for the base/main area

Description 

Elizabeth Furnace is divided into two sections. Buzzard Rocks and the Talking Headwall. Buzzard rock offers slab climbing with great exposure to the valley below. The Talking Headwall is at the base of the valley and offers big overhangs on friendly jugs. You're not going to find a lifetime of climbing at either crag but you can find some quality moderate routes in a beautiful setting.

If you want to take a break from climbing take a dip in Passage Creek. There are some great swimming holes and the cool water temps are great in the summer. There are hundreds of miles of hiking trails in the George Washington Forest. For the fishermen out there Passage creek is a stocked creek, and offers some great fly or bait fishing.

Don't forget to stop at Waterlick Grocery and show your support to the locals. The owner supports climbing and sells light gear. Anything you need to know about the Elizabeth Furnace/Fort Valley area can be found here. I've also heard the burritos are fantastic!

Getting There 

From the East-
Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 then turn left onto Mountain Road (Route 619).
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail head
Trail head

Guidebooks 

Rakkup: Rakkup mobile guidebook is available on rakkup.com. Download the app and keep all your guidebooks handy. Once dowloaded, app requires no cell service to operate. See trails, beta, topos, and get gps waypoint navigation. rakkup.com/guidebooks/elizabet...

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.9 miles from here

39 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',6],['5.8',9],['5.9',5],['5.10',9],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Elizabeth Furnace

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Elizabeth Furnace:
Three Amigos Double Direct   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Buzzard Rocks
Failure to Communicate   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Buzzard Rocks
Kimberly   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Buzzard Rocks
Raising Arizona   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Buzzard Rocks
Unknown 1   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Buzzard Rocks
Half and Half   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Buzzard Rocks
Anonymous Flake Right   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Buzzard Rocks
Ass Cannibal   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Buzzard Rocks
Melungian Brotherhood   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Buzzard Rocks
I Love Big Jugs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Talking Headwall
Pulp Friction   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Buzzard Rocks
The Bulge   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Buzzard Rocks
Pure Energy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Talking Headwall
unknown, 5.10   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Talking Headwall
Fortis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Talking Headwall
Adam Kopley Memorial Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Buzzard Rocks
Foops   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Talking Headwall
Big Balls   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Talking Headwall
Leading Should Feel This Way   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Talking Headwall
Send Town   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Talking Headwall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Elizabeth Furnace

Featured Route For Elizabeth Furnace
Rock Climbing Photo: josh pulling through the second roof

Leading Should Feel This Way 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Virginia : Shenandoah & NW VA Region : ... : Talking Headwall
This route climbs the large roof to the right side of the crag. Start at a very high first bolt (consider stick clipping, placing a small cam, or getting some balls). Clip the second bolt below the large roof (decking possibilities). Pull the roof using the small rail and some heel hooks. Clip the next bolt and shake out. Begin to follow the bolts slightly to the right and then left toward the anchors. Fight the pump through this section and find good rests for the run to the anchors. Thi...[more]   Browse More Classics in Virginia

Photos of Elizabeth Furnace Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The ridge at Buzzard Rocks
The ridge at Buzzard Rocks

Comments on Elizabeth Furnace Add Comment
Show which comments
By Katie Hughes
Jul 5, 2015
The waterlick grocery store appears to be closed permanently however I highly recommend Holy Moly Potato Donut shop on Strasburg. You can get donuts made with mashed potatoes (surprisingly awesome) as well as well as beef bulgogi burgers.
By Joe Hurley
Dec 7, 2015
I climbed at Buzzard rocks yesterday and thought I could add some details that would've helped us out.

To get to Buzzard Rocks: Turn left onto Mountain Road to go to Buzzard Rocks. Drive ~1.2 miles to a parking lot on the right side of the road. The lot is labeled "Buzzard Rocks Trail". The trail to get to the crag is an easy 4.0 miles, marked with white "i"s the entire way. It will be obvious when you get to the crag, but hiking to the base of the cliff was tricky since the trail was overgrown. We rappelled to avoid bushwacking.

To get to Talking Headwall: Drive past the turnoff to Mountain Creek about 0.5 miles. Park immediately off of Fort Valley Road as soon as the road first runs parallel to Passage Creek (creek on left, rock face on right).
By Francisco Fuentes
From: Manassas, Va
Apr 27, 2017
Hello all, I just wanted to say the new rakkup guide is now available. All beta is downloaded to the in phone app. Access all the routes, topos, trails & waypoint navigation off your phone. Once downloaded no service is required, so you can have the beta while out of cell service range.

rakkup.com/guidebooks/elizabet...
Rakkup guide
By Climb Germany
Jun 24, 2017
This is also a great place to fly fish after your burned climbing. You do need an extra trout license though.

Lots of places to throw up a hammock too and the campground is just 2mi or so down the road.
By Francisco Fuentes
From: Manassas, Va
Jul 3, 2017
Gear found and recovered on July 2nd, looks to be bail draws and biner from the thunderstorms that popped up on the 1st. If it's yours, tell me what you left behind and I'll make sure it gets back to you.

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