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19th Nervous Breakdown T 
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Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 
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Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 
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Uncle Billy  
Up the Down Chimney T 
Veggie Eater S 
Very Narrow and Treesy T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Eleven Cent Moon 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeb Schenck, 1970s. FFA: Paul Piana and Todd Skinner
Page Views: 2,083
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Near the crux.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A nice route below and slightly [right] of the plum line below Currey's anchors. Follows a traversing, thin crack left, before a mantle move above to reach the first of two bolts. Balancy moves reach the final dihedral. Place secure small wires before blasting through the thin moves of the crux. An unprotected face TR variation (12a) climbs up a thin dihedral off the crescent moon flake at the base directly into the line.

Protection 

This mixed route requires mostly small gear, small nuts, cams and clips two bolts. Shares anchor with Currey's Diagonal. The pin mentioned in the guide for the initial traverse is not present, although protection is manageable (TCUs and nuts).


Photos of Eleven Cent Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Not a great shot, but better than nothing.
Not a great shot, but better than nothing.

Comments on Eleven Cent Moon Add Comment
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By Andy Johnson
Sep 15, 2003

Just did this route this weekend and thought it was really enjoyable. There are actually three bolts that you clip and here is all you will need for pro. 1 yellow Alien, 1 red Alien and 1blue Metolius TCU. You need a little bit of go for it for the crux. Just remember that as with most climbing routes, the feet are really important.
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 15, 2005

A green Alien can be finagled in just before the crux moves. Very aesthetic, very foot-work oriented.
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Sep 13, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I did this back in the summer of 2001 with my buddy Scott Miller. Excellent climbing with a thrilling finish. Footwork is key.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jun 29, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I placed small stoppers before the crux moves instead of TCUs, because I didn't want to plug up any important finger locks. I had two very good stoppers about 6 inches apart to protect the hard moves. Your feet are above the gear at the desperate part, but the fall is very clean. This is a great pitch.
By peachy spohn
Jun 5, 2014

Great route! The piton is gone, but it isn't necessary: a cam (#2 Metolius) and a small stopper can be used. I also placed a small stopper in the amazing, arching, super cool dihedral.
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 5, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Excellent climb. I have always placed overhead pro for the crux face moves near the finish. The left-facing dihedral involves 5.10 liebacking protected by RPs to where it blanks out & the crux moves are encountered. I have always pre-strung 2 wired stoppers together to have the added reach to place a #6-7 stopper in the bottom of the finger lock the crux ends at.
By Jeb Schenck
Apr 19, 2017

The route was originally free and aid (5.8, A3+) done in mid-February--semester break I think around 1971 or 72. We used holes and "bat hooks" a couple of thin tied off blades at angles,and a rurp down low--which broke off a tiny flake when my second came up. The route was then called Witches Brass Bra, because it so darn cold. Paul later told me about it. It was obvious that it would go free even then, but it would be hard.

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