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Elephant's Head Buttress
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Elephants Head Crack T 

Elephants Head Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: FA Adi Joerg circa 1964 just before Fritz Weissner could make a successful accent. FFA John Bouchard, Fall 1973
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: doliver Oliver on Sep 6, 2016

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Description 

The obvious crack line that shoots straight up the Buttress to the nice grassy ledge just below the summit.

There is a 2-bolt anchor on the starting ledge to avoid falling down the eroded gully as the ledge is very small.

P.1 (5.8)
Climb up the crack that starts off of the small grassy ledge at the base the crack next to the eroded gully. Climb to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge on the left of the crack.

P.2 (5.9+)
Continue up the crack to a wild overhanging off-width with a fist crack in the back. Finesse your way up this using good feet on the right then delicately climb up and over loose block to gain the large comfy grassy ledge. Belay at the 2-bolt anchor for Airivata on the left end of the ledge.

P.3 (5.9)
Originally unprotected but has seen some bolts added over the years. Difficult mantle to gain the summit follow the bolt line ten feet right of the Airivata anchor.

Rap off trees back to ledge then either do a single double (60m) rope rappel back to ledge or a couple single 60m rappels down Airivata

Location 

Central part of Elephants Head

Protection 

Gear to 3", though a 4 can be useful. Crux protects with a #1 cam


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By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Sep 21, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

If only this were somewhat clean....Bit of an adventurous route , lots of moss, dirt jamming, loose blocks and vegetation. But overall really fun jamming and the chimney/off width on the second pitch was sick! Doubles from .5-2 would be handy. Made it down with 2 70m single rope raps stopping at the first station on Airivata.

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