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Elephant's Head Buttress

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Elephants Head Crack T 

Elephant's Head Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 2,506'
Location: 44.55309, -72.79431 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,239
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: doliver on Sep 6, 2016

63° | 42°

52° | 39°

64° | 49°

63° | 49°

63° | 50°

61° | 49°
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This massive buttress towers over rt 108 and holds some of smuggs most spectacular rock climbing. With climbs ranging from classic 5.9+ adventure routes to challenging multi-pitch sport climbs. Committing climbing on less than ideal rock means Elephants Head isn't a beginners area, but those up for the challenge will have an adventure like no other on the steep cracks and faces Elephants Head has to offer. Many of the routes are steeper than they appear.

From left to right:

Still in Ramadi (11a, 10c)
Airavata (11a, 10c, 11b, 12b)
Elephant's Head Crack (5.8, 5.9+, 5.9)
True North (10b, 11c, 11c)
Ganesh (10b, 10c, 12b, 10d)
Elephantitis (11b)

Getting There 

Locate the climbers trail just above the hair pin turn. Take this steep trail up to a loose rock gully that takes you up to the base of the buttress.

Watch out for stinging nettles close to the road!

Climbing Season

For the Smuggler's Notch area.

Weather station 2.2 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Elephant's Head Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Elephant's Head Buttress:
Elephants Head Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Elephant's Head Buttress

Featured Route For Elephant's Head Buttress

Elephants Head Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13  Vermont : Smuggler's Notch : Elephant's Head Buttress
The obvious crack line that shoots straight up the Buttress to the nice grassy ledge just below the summit.There is a 2-bolt anchor on the starting ledge to avoid falling down the eroded gully as the ledge is very small.P.1 (5.8)Climb up the crack that starts off of the small grassy ledge at the base the crack next to the eroded gully. Climb to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge on the left of the crack.P.2 (5.9+) Continue up the crack to a wild overhanging off-width with a fist crack in the back...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

Comments on Elephant's Head Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon.R
Sep 24, 2017
On the third pitch of Ganesh today, there were somewhere on the order of 20-40 yellow jackets/ wasps on the route. I bailed before getting a chance to see where the nest was, but it was likely near the overlap 2/3 of the way up the pitch.
By Luc-514
From: Montreal, Quebec
Feb 21, 2017
Saw a pretty impressive route on the right facing side of Elephant Head, on the left side of Ragna Rock (ice/mixed).
A bunch of draws just hanging there.

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