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Elephant's Arse
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Elephant's Arse Crack T 
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Elephantiasis 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Robin Barley, Peter Shackleton
Page Views: 645
Submitted By: AJV on Jul 26, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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great climb if it's dry.

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The bottom 10 feet will almost always be wet. However, the moves aren't very hard and you'll get a piece in before your feet are 5 feet up. Many people skip this climb because of the wetness, but the crack above is outstanding. Steep locker hand jams all the way to the top. Plenty of rests but all rests all slightly strenuous.

Location 

The diagonal crack about 5 metres right of Elephant's Arse

Protection 

Bomber gear the entire way. 1s, 2s and 3s are all handy.


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By Eric Fjellanger
Aug 13, 2013

Great and pumpy. Not sure why the Select guide describes it as a bit wide, it mostly varies from good hands to good fingers, and I was wishing for more finger-sized gear.
By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Aug 22, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Tougher than it looks, flaring jams. Wet start has tough moves and is intimidating.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I don't use tape gloves in Squamish, with this route being the exception.
By Mark van Eijk
Jul 7, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Too bad about the permanently soggy start, but worth it as the climbing above is exceptionally good. If you're tall you can place your first pieces from comfortable stances. The opening boulder problem is engaging and fun except for the slime.

The business ranges from rattly fingers to big hands and everything in between. No really hard moves, but sustained with numerous marginal rests. Multiple pieces from BD #.5 to #3 help, so do tape gloves. I agree with Eric that you'll want a selection of smaller pieces as well.

Great climbing, get over the wet start and go do it!
By mousebob
Jul 9, 2017

the bottom of the route is slimier and wetter than ever

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