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YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Josh Gross
New Route: Yes
Season: ALL
Page Views: 2,993
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Jan 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Start off with a small boulder problem to a rest then the fun beginnings with a bear hugging section and the true crux. Just when you think it's over, there is a slab crux followed by moderate climbing to the anchor.


This is just right of "Kleptocracy".


12 bolts.

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By mlloyd
From: denver
Dec 12, 2011

Has anyone climbed this? Looking for someone else's opinion of the grade and the route... thoughts?
By Taylor Roy
From: Midvale, UT
Mar 9, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Tried this route yesterday. Lots of loose rock (small flakes and chips), but the climbing and movement are really interesting. The lower section is tricky and weird but learns down fast. The real business starts past the "bear hug" when you move left onto the arete and try to get set up on an awkward, vertical pinch. Then reach over the bulge, follow a crimp/sloper rail, and do a hard mantle to get established on the slab.

This is a quintessential Quarry route: lots of technical climbing on improbable features that demands a strong mastery of face and crack skills to succeed.

True, the top of this route fell down, but what remains is still great. The route just needs some traffic, and it will clean up nicely.

Props to Josh for realizing the potential of this unusual feature and creating such a nice route.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 25, 2014

Okay maybe I am just a gumby, but how do you do the first section to this??! Ha...I think it's one of those things that once you figure it out, it becomes not that hard, but right now it feels impossible and desperate! So, how do you do the first section?
By derek peavey
Mar 6, 2015

I added another bolt next to the last existing bolt plus chain anchors on the route. Hopefully this anchor will stick around for awhile.

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