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32 - Elephant Rock
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L to R R to L Alpha
Crack of Despair T 
Crack of Doom T 
Crack of Redemption T 
Crashline T 
Elephant Talk S 
Elephantiasis T 
Fatal Mistake T 
Fun Terminal S 
Hairline T 
Hocus Pocus S 
Hotline T 
Hundredth Monkey, The S 
Left Guru Crack T 
Lost Error T 
Moongerms T 
Pink Dream T 
Pink Elephant T 
Plumb Line T 
Real Error T 
Reality Check T 
Right Guru Crack T 
Sky T 
Straight Error T 
Trundling Juan T 
Wicked Gravity S 
Worst Error, Left T 
Worst Error, Right T 

Elephant Talk 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kurt Smith and Tucker Tech (Oct, '88)
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: Bryan G on Oct 4, 2012

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Elephant Talk is located on the far left side of the top of the formation. It is approached by rappelling in from above. The Reid guide has a pretty good topo showing the distinctive looking boulder and trees at the top. The rap anchors are down over the side in a little gully next to a flake.

The rock over on the upper section of the East Face is very different than most of the Elephant Rock granite. It is more like the rock in Joshua Tree or Alabama hills with great friction and lots of patina and edges. There are some large rotten flakes on the lower and upper portions of the climb which detract from the quality, but the bulk of the route consists of "hero climbing" on good edges up a golden head-wall with spectacular exposure.

The climb has a bit of an indistinct start. If you are mini-traxion soloing the route, start climbing just below the lowest bolt. If you want to rap in and lead out, then I guess you can build an anchor down under the roof and to the left (the start of the Guru Cracks) and then climb up rotten flakes leading up and right to the first bolt. The crux is in the middle of the route with another crux at the end where you move over into some more large flakes. Finish up a gully back to the bolted anchor.

Protection 

Bolts, and you need to build a gear anchor at the start if planning to lead.


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