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Stick Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack of Fire, Crack of Fire boulder 
Elephant Penis T 
Left arĂȘte, Roni size boulder 
Manteca, Manteca boulder 
Off the Wagon, Abutment boulder 
On a limb, Abutment boulder 
Promote The Segregation T 
Stick and move T 
Stick Left T 
Stick Right T 
Stickball TR 
unknown T 
unknown in gully up & right of Stick climbs T 
unknown left start to Datura T 
unknown right of Datura pillar T 
Unsorted Routes:

Elephant Penis 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FA Richard Harrison, Paul van Bergen, Sal Mamusia, and Nick Nordblom
Page Views: 534
Submitted By: Royal on Apr 26, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: base of route

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The first pitch generally consists of excellent moderate hand to fist crack climbing with plenty of face holds thrown in. I'd call it 5.8ish and it's 35 meters on the money. This pitch ends at a nice ledge.

The second pitch is slightly harder, though still 5.8, perhaps 5.9. You need a #6 BD to protect the first 15 feet or so off the anchor. The crack narrows and eases in difficultly.


This route is higher up on the left side of stick gully. It is a few hundred feet down the gully from stick left and is situated on the opposite side of the gully from stick left.

The route ascends the obvious varnished dihedral and is easily done in two pitches, though I believe you could do it in one with a 70 meter rope. You'll want a 70 meter rope to rappel the route.


BD Camalots 2 x #0.5 - #3, 1 x #4, 1 x #6.

Photos of Elephant Penis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: first pitch
first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Stick Dihedral from the floor of stick gully.
BETA PHOTO: Stick Dihedral from the floor of stick gully.

Comments on Elephant Penis Add Comment
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By Royal
From: Santa Rosa, CA
May 2, 2015

Some people seem to think this is Elephant Penis - now that I have climbed it I am sure it is not.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There may be variations possible for this line. What we climbed didn't exactly match the description here or in the Handren guide, but it was quality climbing and a lot of solid 5.9 fun.

We started up the smooth flake to the right of the sandy-looking handcrack and broke the climb into 4 pitches to minimize rope drag.
By Ben Townsend
Nov 2, 2015

I got much of the information below from Joanne Urioste last spring, but didn't get around to doing the route until today.

Looking from the Pine Creek lot, the obvious blank, white, 700' high pillar on the east-facing (left) wall of Stick Gully is the eponymous organ of pachydermal procreation, also known as Pearl Buttress. This route, also known as Datura to some, starts in an alcove immediately at its left base.

1. Above an easy slab, enter a short chimney that leads up to a corner and emerges at a ledge with a bolted anchor. 60', well protected, a bit awkward and with a smidge of 5.9.

2. Third class up and left in the brushy, somewhat loose gully to a prominent pine tree that is just up and left of the start of the obvious dark crack and corner. 100' or so.

3. Follow the obvious hand crack up into the right-facing, darkly varnished corner, which leads up to a two-bolt anchor. There's one protection bolt on the left wall, but mostly you want all the hand and fist size gear you can carry. I had only one #4, which made for a character-building runout at the top; another time I'd have at least two #4 and one #5. 115' exactly. The hardest single moves on this pitch may be no harder than 5.8-5.9, but there sure are a lot of them; Joanne called it 5.10a and I'm inclined to agree.

4. We didn't do the last pitch (due to a miscommunication about bringing the big cams), but it looked great. I'd want a #6 that I could push along as far as possible in the varnished starting chimney.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Dec 3, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

climbed what is in the picture, agree that it does not match up with books description.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Sep 13, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The route description in the 2nd edition of Handren's guidebook is accurate. (Description in 1st edition doesn't seem to match up to the route.)

Bring a #6 for the start of the last pitch if you are squeamish about the wide stuff.

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