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Derrydale Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Elephant in the Room T,S 
Exilis Dihedral T,S 
Grand Old Pachyderm S 
Mammoth Poaching S 
Mowgli Walk S 

Elephant in the Room 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (February 2009)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 865
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 5, 2009

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Matthew Fienup leading "Elephant in the Room&...

Description 

Varied climbing through three tiers of rock on the tallest part of the wall.

The route starts with steep face climbing on positive holds (5.8+) on rock that is strangely reminiscent of San Ysidro. Upon reaching a ledge atop the first tier, the route follows blocks up and slightly right, in the direction of an obvious overhang. The route then follows positive holds up to the roof. A devilish mantel leads to easy slab-climbing.

The route ends on a wide, grassy ledge in what feels like a rocky amphitheater--the position is excellent.

The route can be rappelled with 2 ropes.

Location 

The routes starts in a gully next to the road, on the right hand side of the crag. Click here for location.

Protection 

7 bolts (all 1/2" Rawls), yellow TCU, 1-inch cam. Bolted top anchor with rappel rings.


Photos of Elephant in the Room Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo for Elephant in the Room, at Derrydale ...
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Elephant in the Room, at Derrydale ...

Comments on Elephant in the Room Add Comment
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By Romain Wacziarg
Feb 5, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Another terrible looking route with a shitty name!
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 6, 2009

The next crag that we open should have route names that are ALL surfing cliches...I'm thinking pointbreak, longboard, doubleoverhead...
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 7, 2009

Only two stars girls? clearly another instant classic.
By Rob Chaney
May 6, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

fun route worth doing a bit run out in between the 3rd and 4th and the 4 and 5th bolts a fall before clipping the 4th bolt would result in a huge very ugly fall. how ever it is very easy climbing, I was very relived after clipping the 4th bolt. the mantel move is a very big committing move. it is possible to climb around it by going left. if you go for it look for a right foot to push you over the top. I placed a OP .75 link cam at the start of the route (bommer pice).

Is there any gear that im missing in between the 3rd & 4th, 5th & 6th bolts?