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Elegant Monkey 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 733
Submitted By: Kurtz on Jul 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Elegant Monkey


Follow the obvious open-book corner and crack. Make sure to get a bomber piece in before the first ledge. The crux is at the top. Place pro thoughtfully to avoid dislodging potentially loose rocks in a fall. There are usually a lot of loose stones right on the edge as you top out.


To the right and uphill of the cave-like overhang start for Friday the 13th, Triple Direct, and Fool's Mate. Walk off climbers trail left (or right).


Standard rack. Cams to 3". Suitable trees for toprope anchors.

Photos of Elegant Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Elegant Monkey.  Note loose stones.
BETA PHOTO: Top of Elegant Monkey. Note loose stones.

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By Kurtz
Jul 13, 2012

Not sure I 100% trust the pro at the top (crux) since most of the placements are in cracks between the bedrock and blocks that don't seem to be totally solid. A hard fall on a cam might pop a block loose.
By Danmg89
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I've heard there was some rockfall from the top dihedral a few years back that make the final 8-10 feet more strenuous. Lots of hollow sounding rock, hard to find confidence inspiring pro and sure to get your heart going through the top moves, but a unique climb.
By GabeO
From: New Haven, CT
Aug 26, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Definitely significantly harder than 5.6 if you avoid all the teetering blocks on this. Both my partner and I thought this was harder than Pegasus.
By Russ Keane
Jun 19, 2015

This is a fun lead-- Well protected, I thought -- even though I know what people are saying about the blockiness of the pro. Some spots were less bomber than others. If you've done alpine-leading where you need to judge each placement and you need to be creative, you can protect this line easily.

Kind of pumpy and steep at the top. Very good test for an established 5.6 leader. If you are still new to leading trad, be careful. It's kind of heady up there.
By farkas.time
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 13, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Hardest 5.6 I've climbed in CT for sure. More like 5.8 -- thought I was off route! Keep on stemming. Pro is fiddly but present. Top is vertical/overhung crux.
By Honza Drahotušský
Sep 9, 2016

This route is very technical. Stemming, stemming and stemming again. But only this way i think i can consider it as 5.6. It is really hard 5.6 Route is well protected. I put 10 good placements on this 25m route and that's more than enough. Crux is slightly overhanging, but if you keep on stemming, you are not going to notice

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