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Picnic Area
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Electric Stove Couch T,TR 
Grishnakh or Gorbag T 
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Electric Stove Couch 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: Eric Olson on Sep 22, 2012

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Lowe ball on a Mammut Screamer helping protect the...

Description 

This climb has a combination of crack and face moves. The features are discontinuous, but the moves are fun if not fluid. There are plenty of options to make the route harder, the most obvious being pulling the roof on crimps at the top. The 5.7 version skirts left of the roof and out the wide fists crack at the top.

Location 

45° 23.7906' N, 92° 39.3351W (reading taken at Picnic Area Face)
This route is about 30' to climber's right (South) and around the corner from the Picnic Area face. From below, look for a right-facing dihedral with a large roof at the top. Above you, near the top, a wide fists crack separates the roof from surrounding rock on climber's left.

To locate the top for setting anchors, hike up Riverbluff trail from the picnic grounds and boat launch. Find the prominent tall prow (about 8 feet above the trail) that marks the top of the Picnic Area face climbs. About 30' South of this prow is another rock prow - this one is low, right at trail level. You will see the distinct wide fists crack that splits the prow. The roof below is to the left of this crack.

Protection 

I'm not much of a leader on gear, but this climb stikes me as hard to protect on lead. The cracks down low are very shallow, and the mid-section seems dicey. Let me know if I'm wrong - I didn't climb it with an eye on placements.

The features at the top facilitate an easy top rope setup including a tree and a couple cracks. If you drop your anchor in the slightly worn dish about 18" left the wide fist crack that splits the prow, your rope will be hanging over the large roof below. This placement still allows you to avoid the roof by skirting it left.


Photos of Electric Stove Couch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the crux on Electric Stove Couch (5.7) whi...
Working the crux on Electric Stove Couch (5.7) whi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Doubling down on Electric Stove Couch (5.7) while ...
Doubling down on Electric Stove Couch (5.7) while ...
Rock Climbing Photo: An anchor placement like this will drape over the ...
BETA PHOTO: An anchor placement like this will drape over the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The prow over Electric Stove Couch. The roof below...
BETA PHOTO: The prow over Electric Stove Couch. The roof below...
Rock Climbing Photo: Electric Stove Couch from below.
BETA PHOTO: Electric Stove Couch from below.

Comments on Electric Stove Couch Add Comment
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By Ron Le Blanc
Jan 6, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

I found this written by MN guidebook author Mike Ferris on his webpage a couple of years ago:

"Electric Stove Couch (Picnic Area) - definitely no 5.7 version of this route, at least 5.9."

Even though I have proven that this route will take gear (at least to my personal minimal standards), I wouldn't recommend a ground up onsight attempt as the crux is fairly difficult, marginally protected, as well as committing.

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