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Electric Ladyland  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3+

Type:  Aid, 12 pitches, 1200', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3+ [details]
FA: Lewis, Accomazzo, Harris. 1975
Page Views: 1,141
Submitted By: V.X. on Apr 4, 2013

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Electric Ladyland, early ascent, Steve Ortner, Aka...

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This huge right facing corner system is the most striking feature on the East Wall. The corner forms an impressive white wave of rock so big there is a maze of big features within the corner itself. Electric Ladyland follows thin cracks that lead directly to the base of the big right facing dihedral and finishes out an amazing roof. It feels big, it is steep. The route has a little loose rock, good enough placements, and it is in a relatively sheltered location. Why doesn't it see more traffic? Who knows.

The alternate lite start climbs Ten Days After and joins Electric Ladyland at pitch 5 making it route a route mostly in the A2/A2+ range. The upper crux (A3) is a couple pitches below Eagle Ledge and involves a good stretch of equalized heads and beak tips.

Most of this route goes into the shade earlier in the day. It would be a great choice for climbers who don't have enough time for a full El Cap route but want to climb something moderate. Most people climbing at a relaxed pace should plan 2-3 nights on the wall plus approach/descent. The route hauls pretty clean from all bomber anchors - good to go for short fixing. The upper half of the route is somewhat sheltered and the topout seems doable in wet conditions. Amazing and hard free climbing pitches are already woven into the landscape of dihedrals and cracks on and around this climb.

First One Day Ascent: ?


5-6 LAs
3-4 Blades, thick, including long
2ea Baby Angles
Few Sawed Angles
Many peckers especially medium and large
Standard bigwall cam rack to 5", including offsets
Assortment of Stoppers and offsets
Assortment of heads
Hooks, all types
Bolt kit. Few questionable bolts remain.

Photos of Electric Ladyland Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 4th Ascent, Mike Fogarty, Steve Ortner AKA, Stretc...
4th Ascent, Mike Fogarty, Steve Ortner AKA, Stretc...

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