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Electric Gypsy Moth 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Zach Orenczak
Page Views: 1,109
Submitted By: Shane Zumpf on Aug 5, 2009

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Harper on Electric Gypsy Moth, a climb well worth ...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This route is a great line and has fun position all the way to the top. The crux is moving over the first bolt.


5 bolts to anchors. A #0.5 Camalot can be used to protect the opening moves in getting to the first bolt.


This route is on the Southwest face of Blair I. You can find it by climbing the first pitch of Le Petit Arbre and then traversing south then around the corner till you see an obvious arete with bolts going up the face. Alternately, you can scramble up to the climb from the South.

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By Skip Harper
Oct 23, 2014

Good eye Zac, this is one of your best. The crux is definitely the first few moves up and around the prominent corner (well bolted, although one might want a small cam behind the large flake at the start) until the face is approximated. It's a pebble peppered cruise from there.

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