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Electric Funeral 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz 2014
Page Views: 36
Submitted By: Alexander K on Aug 8, 2017

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Description 

An 8 pitch line on Wide Awake Tower, this climb doesn't seem to have been done much, and maybe rightfully so as there is quite a bit of loose rock and some less classic approach pitches. Pitches 5-8 were pretty spectacular, and other than P4 everything was pretty good climbing.

Start by walking up the snow gully on the far side of Wide Awake Tower until you see the left facing to right facing corners with wide cracks that define pitches two and three. First ascentionists described "a body length of 5.7" to reach the start ledge. With the snow conditions as they were this ledge required us to do a short pitch (or some bold and dirty free soloing) to reach. It is covered in loose rock, be careful.

Pitch 1, 5.10(+?) 30m: Start in the crack at the back of the flare and pull a bulge. Either continue up wider cracks above (easier) or step down and left into a left facing stem corner protected by micro gear. This corner required some heavy cleaning and trundling, making me think that it might not have been the original line, although it appears to fit the original description. Either way finish at a bolted anchor at the base of the obvious left facing corner.

Pitch 2, 5.10, 20m: Continue up wide cracks in the left facing corner to a ledge and build a gear belay (takes 1-2 inch gear).

Pitch 3, 5.10, 20m: do a few meters of wide climbing up the right facing corner, then follow a hand crack up to a ledge and a large slung horn.

Pitch 4, 5.9, 40m: Pull the bulge off the belay (4 or 5 inch piece still useful) and then climb up ledges, eventually cutting back right. Once you reach a chimney down climb it (3 meters, nice cracks, protect the follower) then climb back up a short ways to a belay stance with gear.

Pitch 5, 5.10+, 50m: Climb nice hand and finger cracks up and slightly left until you can make some exciting moves into the right facing lieback corner. Take this to a ledge just below the overlap and build a gear belay. Really nice pitch.

Pitch 6, 5.10+, 15m: Pull some hard moves over the overlap and up into a groove, fire in some gear then pull out left onto the face instead of continuing up the dirty corner. Slightly runout face climbing takes you to a two bolt belay.

Pitch 7, 5.11-, 30m: Climb up and left past gear and a bolt until you reach the twin seams/cracks splitting the golden face. Finesse your way up these thin features getting a few tiny pieces of gear, and eventually committing to the left crack. Follow this crack up and belay at a bolted anchor below the obvious roof.

Pitch 8, 5.11+, 50m: Climb up to the roof and pull it (crux) then shortly after make a crack switch (also tricky) to easier cracks out right and follow these up to another bolted anchor.

My partner Stephen Senecal committed to the crack that breached the roof on P8 and followed it for 50m cleaning as he went. This put us on top of the pillar that Wide Awake finishes on, but left us without a way to continue up. We rapped off of some slings and an old REI biner. This pitch was very sustained 5.10 and 5.11 climbing with lots of micro gear and a bit runout.

Rap the route, being very careful of loose rock and stuck ropes. Two 60m ropes needed to rap. Hopefully you paid attention to the rap anchors on the way up as not all of them are at belays. The rappel anchors may benefit from fresh tat so consider bringing some extra cord and biners to make it down safely.

Location 

On the south side of Wide Awake Tower (next tower after walking past Solitary Confinement). Locate the obvious left facing and right facing corners on a pillar part way up the snow gully. Find a way up to the ledge (maybe adds an approach pitch) and start in a flare directly below the obvious left facing corner.

Protection 

Doubles 00 C3 to #3 camalot + nuts and a few offset RPs. A #4 and #5 for P2 and P3 (you could leave them on the horn and get them when you rappel). If you end up not doing the thin left facing corner on P1 then you could probably get by with fewer micro cams.


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