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Electric Butterfly T 
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Electric Butterfly 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,748
Submitted By: Bryan Gall on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Electric Moth. No Name, CO.


Electric Butterfly is the corner to a roof located right of the green shed next to the bridge crossing No Name Creek. An electric wire to the left of the climb provides the name. Start in the corner with good jams under the roof. Traverse right under the roof using a horizontal crack. Climb up the widening crack to the anchors. Numerous boulder problems may be done near the base of this climb. A fun tyrolean can be set on top of this buttress across the road and creek to another broken buttress.


Standard granite rack.

Photos of Electric Butterfly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Power lines look out.
Power lines look out.
Rock Climbing Photo: Protection for the flake.
Protection for the flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux. heading to the flake.
At the crux. heading to the flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Roof and anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Roof and anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Electric Butterfly from the west side of the bridg...
BETA PHOTO: Electric Butterfly from the west side of the bridg...

Comments on Electric Butterfly Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Apr 20, 2004

This is a fun climb and makes for a great top rope. I once told someone who was about to climb it, it was 5.8. Afterwards he told me he thought I sandbagged it pretty hard and that it was 5.9. I would rate it either 8+ or 9- on the crux move in between after topping the flake above the horizontal crack and chimneying the crack to the shelf. The power line hanging a few feet away from the rock looks sketchy as if you could swing into it, however, it is in fact a safe distance, and you should not come close to it regardless.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 2, 2005

This is a great top rope route. Set it up by going up the right of the rock formation, walk toward the anchors behind the top of the rocks and scramble down through the crack to a big ledge to set the rope. The crux move from the flake into the chimney is challenging. Rating - definitely felt like a 5.9- on the crux move. Good fun.
By Nick Broeder
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I'm sorry to say this is a horrible route to top rope. If you go look at the corner of the little shack 3 feet from the wall in between the creek, there is a huge dent from some person top roping and falling and swinging right into the shack. It makes too much of a swing in the beginning, and it is dangerous, just lead it.
From: Chicago/Colorado
Apr 5, 2012

It is a good toprope of you climb straight up. It's stiffer but the plumb line. Otherwise, you climb the back wet corner and can go for a bad swing if you fall out. This was one of my first few gear leads.
By Jay Austin
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a great climb with some interesting moves, felt more like a 5.9 to me with an awkward flake in the middle of the climb.
By Mitchell Colby
Aug 23, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Love this route. A friend told me if you keep both strands of the rope wedged in the flake while toproping you'll swing out perfectly missing the shack and the cliff if you were to blow it early. Super fun lead as well!
By Trent Mahaffey
Aug 20, 2017

Fun climb. Last time I did it it was infested with those big spiders that love waterfalls.

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