|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]|
|FA:||S. Young, D. Martin|
|Submitted By:||John Wilder on Jul 30, 2010|
|Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Electric Ball||Add Comment|
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By Hamik Mukelyan
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 1, 2013
|With an overcammed BD blue or slightly undercammed yellow and a really good belay--a running backward at full throttle if you peel kind of belay--you might stay off the deck if you blow it at the lower crux. If you don't feel solid just downclimb--the gear and fall would be safe at that point.|
By Lina Baker
Jun 1, 2015
|Both technical and somewhat burly--this climb packs a great punch! Great benchmark climb for how you progress over the season!|
Sep 5, 2015
|Great climb. Don't be a pussy, do the direct finish its classic. This pitch was soft for the grade, I thought.|
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 12, 2016
Nice, sustained climbing. Highly recommend a #3 C4 for the low crux.
I was expecting to feel a lot less secure and sketched out placing the second piece after the bottom crux, but you can get a really secure right foot jam in the flaring feature right above the #3 C4. I'm 6' tall and felt quite comfortable stretching out and placing a .4 Camalot and clipping. Technically when that rope is paid out when clipping there is groundfall potential, but just being above your #3 C4 is a safe place to be and quite secure - you can chill, place your piece, chalk and wait until you feel comfortable before you pay out that rope.
The twin cracks above keep you honest, so don't assume your work is over when you've pulled the crux. Technical, funky bottoming finger jams and you can really only place gear in particular places that you often want for your fingers and toes.
Reading the old McLane guidebooks, the line originally finished at the second overlap (after the twin cracks), from which you would build a gear belay and then I have no idea. The direct 10b slab finish was done in the late 90s, and climbs boldly directly above the twin cracks without protection. Alternate finish now seems to climb to the left, the right-most crack that tops out to the left of the twin cracks.