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Eldred Valley

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Eldred Valley Rock Climbing 

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Location: 50.1606, -124.2293 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris A on Jul 22, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: West side of Eldred Valley

Logging Roads - Restricted Access MORE INFO >>>


The Eldred Valley contains a vast expanse of huge granite walls. It will provide great climbing and a wilderness experience. There is also some excellent bouldering. Information for routes can be found here and in The Climbers Guide to Powell River, which can be purchased in local bookstores in Powell River and the Mountain Equipment Co-op in Vancouver.

Getting There 

Follow the Goat Lake Mainline to the pullout and campsite at mp. 34. Two trails lead to psyche slab from the vicinity of the pullout. UPDATED ACCESS NOTE: trail access has change this year due to the logging for the Hydro lines. Just across from the main parking is a spur road that leads up to the logged area for the lines. keep going straight up to reach the trail that leads across the base. the spur leads to Schizophrenia.The main trail starts about 75m up the road, where a faint trail marked with a sign leads across the ditch on the right hand side of the road. This trail is just before a left hand curve in the road. The trail heads very directly to the wall staying to the left of a small gully. It arrives at the base of Skitzophrenia To reach SRI or Sanitarium head left from the base of Skits, the start of Sanitarium is distinguished by a large cedar grove just as you leave the salmonberry SRI is reached after some elevation gain and is a stunning line of bolts above the clearing at the base of the slab where Carag-Dur is visible. To reach Delusional Reality, Solstice, etc; a well-worn trail traverses below the wall from the base of Skits. As this trail heads across the base of the wall you will pass a short trail to the start of Solstice and Psychopath. This area is known as “the Frontal Lobe”. Continuing across, you will intersect the eroded bridge trail just below the Falkland crisis. The trail continues, farther from the wall, until just after you pass a large root-ball and then heads up the gully to Delusional. Delusional starts at the bottom of the gully with a small layback. The bolts to nowhere are a Greg Sorenson project 50m uphill from Delusional. To approach the right hand side of the wall slightly more directly, walk approximately 100m down the road from the pullout at 34 mile to a trail just before the bridge across B-Branch Creek. This trail leads up to the center-right area of Psyche Slab in the vicinity of the Falkland Crisis. It is possible to walk off the summit of the slab via the overgrown Gorilla-Snot route, which loosely follows the gully immediately behind and to the west of the summit area. Few have returned from descending the Gorilla-Snot. Most routes, except Psychopath, are equipped for rappel.

Climbing Season

Weather station 20.1 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Eldred Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eldred Valley:
Schizophrenia   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, Grade III   Psyche Slab
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eldred Valley

Featured Route For Eldred Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo

Call of the Granite 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b C2  North America : Canada : ... : West Main Wall
A note regarding the grade, there are 2 ways of climbing this route either 5.12+/C2 or 5.11/A1. A must do classic for the big wall connoisseur and definitely the largest completed project in the Eldred. Wow. Four seasons of work produced this very rad, twenty-three pitch, free climbing extravaganza. Hard but well protected climbing takes you up and through the overhangs of the scoop. Redpointed with one aid pitch on “easy 5.13 terrain” and one pre-placed bivy. Awesome....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Eldred Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Megin Peake loving life in the valley while climbi...
Megin Peake loving life in the valley while climbi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Carag-dur & The Mainer as seen from the W.Main But...
Carag-dur & The Mainer as seen from the W.Main But...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big blue tarp at Colins Camp
Big blue tarp at Colins Camp
Rock Climbing Photo: Eldred Camp
Eldred Camp
Rock Climbing Photo: Eldred Valley Map contour interval: 500 feet light...
BETA PHOTO: Eldred Valley Map contour interval: 500 feet light...

Comments on Eldred Valley Add Comment
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By kaleidoscopeflux
Aug 30, 2013
Here's an article I wrote with more photos of the area and campsite :)

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