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Eldorado

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Ekel S 

Eldorado Rock Climbing 


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Location: 49.69158, 11.34145 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 312
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jan 7, 2015
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Mini Eldorado (you know, for kids!)

Description 

Among the most legendary crags in the Frankenjura, Eldorado is home to a number of classic and sought-after lines. The cliff is a 50-foot wide, 15-feet deep roof, slanted dramatically upwards from right to left, giving the appearance of a breaching whale. The climbing is short and powerful (though one Markus Bock 5.14 traverses leftward along the underside of the roof), requiring aggressive movement and strong fingers. The most significant lines on the wall are a pair of Jerry Moffatt routes. Ekel was the first IX+ in Germany, and Stone Love was one of the first X+’s (and for a time thought to be perhaps XI- or 5.14b), climbing a steep prow of small, sharp pockets. Nightmare is a highly regarded and popular X, culminating in a big move from a deep mono. At a more moderate grade, Wolfgang Gullich’s contribution, No More Babysitting For Neurotic Girls Today, is worth a look if for no other reason than its name!

The cliff faces south, but is steep enough to provide a fair bit of shade when the sun is high. There is a nice playground immediately below the cliff, which includes a mini climbing wall.

Getting There 

From Obertrubach, drive west until you see the crag on the right, a few hundred yards past the edge of town. There is a parking lot directly below the cliff.

Climbing Season

For the Frankenjura area.

Weather station 20.5 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Eldorado
Rock Climbing Photo: The opening jump move.

Ekel 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c  Europe : Germany : ... : Eldorado
In September 1983, a young Brit crossed paths with a young German climber below the gritstone cliffs of Curbar Edge. He was living on The Dole, “dossing” wherever he could find a dry patch of floor, and so, with nothing better to do, he asked Wolfgang if he had space for an extra passenger on the long drive back to Obertrubach. Over the next few weeks, Jerry Moffatt wrote a major chapter of German climbing history. He worked through many of the Frankenjura’s hardest lines, climbing Sautanz...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Eldorado Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The legendary Eldorado.
The legendary Eldorado.

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