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Eldorado Peak

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L to R R to L Alpha
Dorado Needle East Ridge T 
Dorado Needle NW Ridge T 
Dorado Needle SW Buttress T 
East Ridge 
NW Ice Couloir 

Eldorado Peak Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,860'
Page Views: 8,031
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Danny Darby on Feb 25, 2007

65° | 48°

67° | 51°

71° | 56°

70° | 52°

66° | 50°

67° | 49°
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Not a bad back drop. Going up Eldorado Peak.


Eldorado Peak is an awe aspiring alpine area deep in the North Cascades. The Cascade Pass area can be very crowded on the weekends but is secluded on the weekdays. The summit of Eldorado Peak is guarded by a long and strenuous approach. All though it can be accomplished as a one day push by strong parties it is probably best done as a 2-3 day climb. Routes can be from a easy walk up with an amazing knife edge traverse to WI 3 climbing.

Getting There 

The approach is long and strenuous. Walk west on the Cascade River Road for about 100 feet and find the log to cross the river. Once you have crossed the river you follow the trail for about 1840 vertical through the forest. You will eventually reach a large boulder field. Scramble through though boulders following carins and occasionally a trail on the right side of the boulders. Boulder hop for about 1000 vertical. After the boulders you will reach the beautiful meadows where you will hike to the ridge that overlooks the Roush Creek Basin and Eldorado Glacier. Locate the trail the down climbs 3rd class terrain down to the moraine. Follow the moraine to the glacier and then hike the glacier to a great high camp at about 7600 feet.

Climbing Season

For the North Cascades area.

Weather station 12.3 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Eldorado Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eldorado Peak:
East Ridge   Easy Snow     Snow, Alpine, Grade II   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eldorado Peak

Featured Route For Eldorado Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben, descending from the summit across the cornice...

East Ridge Easy Snow  Washington : Northwest Region : ... : Eldorado Peak
This is a popular, technically easy climb with a classic finish on an exposed summit ridge. The summit view and knife-edge top are exquisite.Begin at the trailhead 20 miles down Cascade River Road, backtracking a few hundred feet until reaching a large, downed tree across the stream. Cross a series of logs and follow the faint trail through boulders to steeper terrain. Follow the trail to a talus field at about 4,000 feet. Head to the top of the talus field below short cliffs and head right ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of Eldorado Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the summit.
Nearing the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit selfie 7/16/2017
Summit selfie 7/16/2017
Rock Climbing Photo: nice view of the fog on the summit
nice view of the fog on the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice ski down
Nice ski down
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit Shot!
Summit Shot!
Rock Climbing Photo: Eldorado Peak Ridge walk
Eldorado Peak Ridge walk
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the Saddle that link to Eldorado Peak
Approaching the Saddle that link to Eldorado Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic knife-edge summit on Eldorado.  Too lazy t...
Classic knife-edge summit on Eldorado. Too lazy t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tara and I on Eldorado summit: 5-31-07. Check out ...
Tara and I on Eldorado summit: 5-31-07. Check out ...

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