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Eldorado Mountain

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Eldorado Mountain Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 7,572'
Location: 39.9204, -105.288 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 73,199
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
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64° | 42°
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63° | 45°
Friday

64° | 36°
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48° | 35°
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60° | 42°
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59° | 37°
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  • Description 

    This area includes everything on Eldorado Mountain, which is South of Eldorado Canyon. The most recognizable rock is the Mickey Mouse Ears on Mickey Mouse Wall. Rossiter's new Eldo book lists many more recently developed crags on this hill.

    The ridges are numbers left to right (south to north) here. Some guidebooks have listed the ridges from right to left (north to south), so there is potential for confusion.

    There is a lot of poison ivy in the area. If you are sensitive, watch out for it.

    Some of the bolting here involves use of atypical or homemade hangers. Some of the bolts have been shot at by irritated landowners. Use caution.

    Getting There 

    There are many approaches. To reach Mickey Mouse Wall, take the road to Eldo, but go right before you get into the town, turn left on a paved road up to a small parking lot. The access road continues from here, but you must hike along this road to an indistinctive trail that crosses a meadow, and follows the stream up to the RR tracks. Hike the talus field to the towers. A better description is in order here, but this is a place that is best found with someone who has already been there.

    Crossing onto railroad property is trespassing. They will confront you if you do so.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 0.9 miles from here

    135 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',51],['2 Stars',47],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',14],['5.10',29],['5.11',41],['5.12',27],['5.13',11],['>=5.14',4],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Eldorado Mountain

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eldorado Mountain:
    Green Dihedral   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Mickey Mouse Wall
    Perversion   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   Mickey Mouse Wall
    Parallel Journey   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Mickey Mouse Wall
    Asahi   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   Mickey Mouse Wall
    Captain Beyond   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   Mickey Mouse Wall
    Lifestream   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 230'   Mickey Mouse Wall
    Beagle's Ear   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Mickey Mouse Wall
    Perilous Journey   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X     TR, 1 pitch   Mickey Mouse Wall
    The Fornicator   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Ridge 1
    Vergin' on Perversion   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Mickey Mouse Wall
    Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Killer Elite   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Ridge 4
    Zambezi   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Mickey Mouse Wall
    Tribal Boundaries   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Congo : Tribal Boundaries, The Sacr...
    The Adultress   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Ridge 1
    Soul Train   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   The Industrial Wall
    Silverback    5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   The Congo : The Gorilla
    Occupied Territory   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Ridge 4
    T.G.V.   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Industrial Wall
    Rogue   5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Industrial Wall
    Vogue   5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Industrial Wall
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eldorado Mountain

    Featured Route For Eldorado Mountain
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tree Frog.

    Tree Frog 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  Colorado : Boulder : ... : Tribal Boundaries, The Sacr...
    Tree Frog is a fun route with cool, technical moves....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Eldorado Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: BH on FA of the Golden Nugget's west side.
    BH on FA of the Golden Nugget's west side.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rocky Flats Nuclear Weapons Plant. View from Eldor...
    Rocky Flats Nuclear Weapons Plant. View from Eldor...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Train on Eldorado Mountain.
    Train on Eldorado Mountain.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rails.
    Rails.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ridge numbering on this website.
    Ridge numbering on this website.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Eldo Mtn. as seen from the air. You can clearly se...
    Eldo Mtn. as seen from the air. You can clearly se...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Southeast Flank of Eldorado Mountain, showing Ridg...
    BETA PHOTO: Southeast Flank of Eldorado Mountain, showing Ridg...

    Comments on Eldorado Mountain Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Dave Brower
    From: cs co
    Oct 19, 2002
    The local wingnut with the gun (Bill Schuller) sold the place to Pinnaclecommunications Inc. I work up there often and have been climbing on the convenient bouldering areas near the road ("Cloud Nine" area, etc.) since the early '90s. I rarely see old Bill around anymore, but I've seen him once in a while putting around the place, so be careful, he still acts like he owns the place... he has about 2 years left before he should be gone completley. He told me once that he "likes to shoot the bolts out of the rock with his gun".
    By Tod Anderson
    Jan 27, 2004
    It is important to be discrete when accessing the Wild West/West Bank or Mickey Mouse from the Plainview area. First, don't park at the Plainview railroad crossing. This is because it is a lot more obvious to sensitive residents that you are in the area and painfully obvious that you are walking on the tracks. It is much better to park a couple of hundred yards below the crossing on the last left hand switchback and walk due west through the Open Space to access the tracks beyond the maintenance yard and out of sight. It's also less obvious that you're climbing as a lot of people come to this area to walk their dogs along the roadway, etc.

    Second, don't walk through the tunnel to get to the West Bank, Ridge One, etc. A well marked trail leads around the tunnel and it only takes about five minutes more than walking through the tunnel. This track has a lot more traffic than in years past with sometimes several trains per hour. There have been a lot of problems here before, so keep a low profile.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 18, 2004
    I love hikin' through those tunnels. It makes the day. Especially when you space out and step on a decapitated skunk or railroad grease. So good!!!!!

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