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Elder Cleavage Direct 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 320', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha, 1980
Page Views: 3,036
Submitted By: proto on Jun 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Don't miss the top pitch...


P1: Start by making interesting bouldery moves to reach a thin crack, go left over an overhang, then up and right to finally reach a belay in a pine tree.

Ivan Rezucha: The original P2 went up an obvious 5.8 jagged crack that had been done earlier as a variation of a nearby route. That 5.8 crack was one of the "cleavages" that led to the name Elder Cleavage.


About 100 feet downhill of Lonely Challenge, and just right of the right-leaning ramp and crack of Up Yours. Start 10 feet left of a small boulder standing very close to the cliff.


Standard rack - get a spotter for the bouldery start.

Photos of Elder Cleavage Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: TR of first pitch.
TR of first pitch.

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By proto
From: Falmouth (MA)
Jun 5, 2009

I led the first pitch last Sunday but it was too late to finish the route. So I've described the first pitch only ...
It's definitely a nice one.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 8, 2009

First ascent was NOT Annie O'Neill. Maybe Rod Schwartz? I forget!
By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Make sure you have tiny cams (blue-black aliens) for the 2nd pitch. Run out the begining of 3rd pitch- (it seems like 5.5 if you pick the right route) to avoid rope drag.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 17, 2009

My what a climb. P1 is hard, thin and has a set of moves under a flake that feel very awkward and slippery (feet). P2 is beatiful with a very cool (but easy) roof move. The crux (for me) were the moves right up under the roof, getting there was a bit tricky.
By chris_vultaggio
From: The Gunks
Apr 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Definitely don't miss the top pitch - it adds some adventure and intimidation to compliment the technical first pitch.

Just beware the loose blocks up high, I've had a party above knock off some microwave-sized blocks in a shower of quartz-conglomerate death from above...
By Sardocius
From: Old Lyme, CT
Nov 18, 2014

Hey everyone, I attempted to lead this onsight a few weeks ago and found the moves off of the ledge to be really kind of sketchy (at least onsight). This being the "5.9" section after pulling through the harder section. Without knowing that there is pro after a move or two off of the ledge (which there is) you risk falling back onto the ledge. Any thoughts on this? I did not send the route until I was able to set a TR, so I will not offer a PG13 rating but this seems a little sketchy.
By Gunkiemike
Oct 2, 2015

The moves up the second pitch off that ledge/slab are indeed committing. A few years back someone fell and broke their back there. That was enough to keep me from leading it (did it on TR, led all the other pitches).