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Elder Abuse 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Dan Brockway and Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Sponge Bath and Depends on the left side of the Nu...

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  • Description 

    A hard thin crack start leads to a nice handcrack.

    Location 

    Start as for "Sponge Bath". Climb the overhanging, thin crack on the left side of the wall.

    Protection 

    Gear to a gold Camalot and single bolt.


    Comments on Elder Abuse Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 23, 2007
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

    The crux is protected by some awkward gear in not-so-great rock. The bolt just above the overhang can be clipped from above the crux, but frankly, I skipped it until after due to an awkward stance.
    Not a great route. As if to punctuate the questionable nature of some of the rock on this climb, a hold broke off just above the crux while I was downclimbing it from the top. This might have been one of the options for a clipping hold.

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