|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||eDixon on Jun 8, 2006|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Elbow Vices||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009
|Man I really suck at wide stuff! That squeeze shouldn't be much of an issue but I just kept getting stuck with cams and all. Cool climb though if you don't mind the start. I had my back against the other wall the whole way... maybe that was part of my problem.|
By Andrew McLean
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
|Great climb to put a hot shit sport climber on. A friend of mine who climbs 12+ sport got shutdown in the squeeze. He's not fat either. The trick is the get your ass outside of the squeeze to move up then rest again each time you go up a few inches. A very narrow slot indeed.|
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 26, 2011
|Umph! The squeeze is definitely the crux. The scabs on my leg from this beast are still festering 6 days later...|
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 28, 2014
|there is noway this is an even 5.10 and the one to the right is 10+, this makes that feel like 5.9.|
By Ryan Marsters
Nov 14, 2016
This thing is a bit of a pain in the ass.
I had to remove my chalk bag and all gear off my backside to fit. Definitely easiest to move near the opening, working the butt in and out, but it feels less secure and quite runout on lead. Inside the crack feels quite brutal but less risk of falling.
Pulling out of the chimney to the hand crack is quite fun.