REI Community
Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Strikes You're Out T 
Air Swedin T 
Battle of the Bulge T 
Big Baby, The T 
Black Corner T 
Bloombagged Again T 
Cal and Andy's Route T 
Cave Route T 
Christmas Tree T 
Crack Attack T 
Digital Readout T 
Disco Machine Gun T 
Dogs in Space T 
Down in Albion T 
Elbow Vices T 
Fat Boy Slim T 
Hole in the Wall T 
Jagged Wedge, The T 
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 
Last Battle, The T 
Like a Prayer  T 
Mayes, The T 
Moon Also Rises, The T 
Mystery Machine, The T 
Our Piece of Real Estate T 
Pigs In Space T 
Quarter of a Man T 
Railroad Tracks T 
Ruby's Cafe T 
Ruins Crack T 
Seppuku Flake T 
Swedin-Ringle T 
Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 
Warm-up T 

Elbow Vices 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 2,699
Submitted By: e Dixon on Jun 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tyler Wagner on "elbow vices"

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Route climbs a corner with a rather wide start then is mostly handcrack to the top.


Route starts on the left end of the buttress. Head down towards Think Pink. Elbow Vices starts on the wall to the left of Pigs In Space.


Large piece for the beginning and then mostly hand-size stuff.

Photos of Elbow Vices Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: swallowed

Comments on Elbow Vices Add Comment
Show which comments
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009

Man I really suck at wide stuff! That squeeze shouldn't be much of an issue but I just kept getting stuck with cams and all. Cool climb though if you don't mind the start. I had my back against the other wall the whole way... maybe that was part of my problem.
By Andrew McLean
From: Colorado
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great climb to put a hot shit sport climber on. A friend of mine who climbs 12+ sport got shutdown in the squeeze. He's not fat either. The trick is the get your ass outside of the squeeze to move up then rest again each time you go up a few inches. A very narrow slot indeed.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 26, 2011

Umph! The squeeze is definitely the crux. The scabs on my leg from this beast are still festering 6 days later...
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 28, 2014

there is noway this is an even 5.10 and the one to the right is 10+, this makes that feel like 5.9.
By Ryan Marsters
Nov 14, 2016

This thing is a bit of a pain in the ass.

I had to remove my chalk bag and all gear off my backside to fit. Definitely easiest to move near the opening, working the butt in and out, but it feels less secure and quite runout on lead. Inside the crack feels quite brutal but less risk of falling.

Pulling out of the chimney to the hand crack is quite fun.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About