|The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner.|
Ascends the right side of the largest and most prominent roof system known as Eagle Buttress. A one-move wonder, but what a move! At least the bolt is above your head.
Go up a short crack (red Alien, bolt) and through overhanging blocky terrain to an open book corner. Up the corner (0.5 Camalot), then move left onto the orange wall. Up the wall to a good stance below the overhanging face above. Make a hard, crimpy, highstep (crux) and dyno for the thank-god bucket. Heel hook and mantel onto the edge, then climb easier terrain to a fixed anchor at the top.
Begin on the right side of the roofs in an open area in the giant talus, and 15' right of a giant boulder.
Red Alien, 0.5 Camalot, quickdraws.
Climber on the lower section of El Supremo.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Jul 31, 2015
This was probably my favorite climb at Eagle Falls. But I love crimpy faces and incuts. Amazing holds! I placed a green alien behind the hollow block below the crux bolt - made me feel better about clipping that crux bolt which is a bit harder if you are shorter.