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El Supremo Grande 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Adam B on Jul 17, 2011

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Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a nice friction slab with consistent moves all the way to the anchor.

Eds. This description has been updated to reflect the entirety of its 115' of climbing.

The above stops at the 1st set of anchors and is 5.10 to 5.10+. Per Mark Rolofson: continuing to the 2nd set of anchors is 5.11d. The last moves are the crux.

Location 

It is the 3rd route from the north end of the formation.

Protection 

10 bolts to 1st anchor and maybe 2-3 after that anchor.

Per Mark Rolofson: to climb the route to the 2nd set of anchors, bring 15 quickdraws. There are Mussy hooks at the 2nd anchor. It is 115 feet to the top anchor, so bring a 70 meter rope or do two lowers / rappels to descend.


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By Chris Mack
Jun 1, 2012

You can take it to the top and descend with one 70m rope. The route's true finish (past the intermediate anchor) is out of character with the rest of the route and is very desperate smearing to the top anchor. Body tension and good smearing technique will get you through it.
By Mark Rolofson
6 days ago
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A very cool slab route. Is it only 5.10 to the first anchor? I'd say it's very solid 5.10d. Quite sustained with several tricky sections. I first climbed it in Spring 2005 & thought it was .11a. Some footholds can break & sand can build up after rainstorms, so I don't expect the climb to feel the same as it did the last time I climbed it.

Climbing to the top & second anchor is rated .11d in the guide. It is very solid .11d to the top. The last move is the crux. Balance up on a crumbling foothold with no real handholds & lunge to a jug. I was on the route last weekend, & the last move seems much harder with the final foothold worse. Enjoy this challenging line if you like hard slab climbing. 15 clips / mussy hooks (10 bolts / 2 bolt anchor / 4 bolts / 2 bolt anchor with hooks). 115 ft. to the top anchor, so bring a 70 meter rope or do two lowers / rappels to descend.

5.10d to first anchor at 90 ft. 5.11d to the top. Great big toe & calf workout. Stay focused.