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El Diente
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El Son del Viento (The Tune of the Wind) S 
Tufa Pirata S 

El Son del Viento (The Tune of the Wind) 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 15 pitches, 1400', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Gareth "Gaz" Leah, Sergio "Tiny" Almada, Octavio "Ocho" Aragon
New Route: Yes
Season: Year round
Page Views: 270
Submitted By: Gaz Leah on Feb 3, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The North Face of El Diente

Description 

El Son del Viento, 5.12d, 420m, 15 Pitches
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The north face of El Diente is an incredible wall that breaks the desert cut ridge of the Sierra Madre with its distinct tooth shape. The route takes a more or less direct line to the summit through various limestone formations including a number of tufa sections. The north face was attempted many years prior to this route and the old equipment can be seen once up on the wall and acts as a historic tribute to the boldness of the climbers of the era, true visionaries, generations ahead of their time.

P1: Climb the blocky slab to a wide crack that leads to a good ledge (5.10a), 25m, 9 bolts + Anchors
P2: A steepening slab that has some great moves through its first dihedral. Above, move through crimps to a belay below the roof (5.10c) 25m, 6 bolts + Anchors
P3: The crux pitch of the route that can be easily skipped via some A0. Climb out right to the roof where you get 3D with some amazing tufas to a sharp and crimpy top out. (5.12d / A0) 15m, 9 bolts + Anchors
P4: Traverse out left to some good but sharp holds and move up the small tufas to a belay below a small roof. Pumpy! (5.12a) 25m, 11 bolts + Anchors
P5: Climb the small roof into easier ground through rain pockets. Move into the big black tufa, finishing at its top (5.11d) 25m, 13 bolts + Anchors
P6: Traverse left into the dihedral via tricky foot work and neat lay backs near the giant foot ledge. (5.11b) 15m, 6 + Anchors
P7: Head up and right into the dihedral, battling small stemming sections through the continuing small roofs to a belay at a cross and tribute to a fallen climber (5.11c) 35m, 13 bolts + Anchors
P8: Scramble across the ledge and up the face, pushing into the slab as the arête begins. (Some vegetation) Finish at a stance on a good ledge (5.11b) 30m, 11 bolts + Anchors
P9: Climb up into the corner and battle the small roof on its right side (crux) Move up the easy slab to the chains. Some blocks move slightly but the pitch is mostly solid. (5.10c) 30m, 8 bolts + Anchors
P10: A perfect fist crack that moves out right near the end and finishes on a ledge below a roof. (5.10b) 35m, 9 bolts + Anchors
P11: Pull the roof on its right side (crux) and move onto the slab for some technical climbing through side pulls and good edges (5.12a) 30m, 12 bolts + Anchors
P12: Delicately move left from the belay, making progress into the large tufa corner. Climb up to the giant hanging tufa that rings hard and move past to its right into yet more amazing tufa. Move up into the corner through perm draws to the chains. (5.11c) 25m, 11 bolts + Anchors
P13: Traverse out right under roof to a series of amazing tufas that almost feel manufactured. Exit the roof through technical moves. (5.11c) 25m, 9 bolts + Anchors
P14: Climb the technical face through a number of good side pulls. Move out right near the 3rd bolt and make easier movement back left and to the chains. (5.11d) 30m, 11 bolts + Anchors
P15: A short class IV sections with a single 5.6 move. (5.6) 1 bolt. 10m
Summit: Scramble some Class IV to the palm topped summit that also various other interesting fauna. 40m

Descent: Rappel the route using all the fixed draws along the way to ensure you can reach the anchor from the overhang. Rappel directly down from the anchor of pitch 7 to pitch 5 using the perma draws on the wall.

Equipped and FA Gaz Leah, Sergio 'Tiny' Almada Barrera, & Octavio “8” Aragon
January 22nd, 2016

Location 

Located on the giant face behind the single pitch sport area.

Protection 

15 quick draws, 70m rope, helmet


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By Mark Grundon
Mar 8, 2016

FFA: Zak Roper Dylan Connole

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