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Start sitting on the left arete. There are a couple different options for starting holds. I used a terrible sidepull crimp for my right hand and a slightly better sidepull crimp, around the corner from the arete, with my left hand. Pull off the ground with difficulty and slap up and right to an angled sloper on the lip. Match the lip with the left hand and fight for a couple more moves to reach better holds. Throw a heel on and press out a reasonably easy mantel. The first few moves are definitely the crux.
Short and stout! Good conditions definitely help. But, no matter what the conditions, this climb will likely destroy your skin.
I can't say I recommend this climb, but it might be worth doing if you've run out of things to climb or you consider yourself a masochist.
Located on the same boulder as 'Sharp Arete'. This small block is about 75 feet to the left of the Valley Boulder (when facing Firecracker).
A pad or two
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 9, 2013
I know I posted this climb, but I'm going to come right out and say it. This climb is terrible. I won't give it 'the bomb' because I only give that to climbs that have really low rock quality or other huge detractions. But, that being said, this is one of my least favorite climbs at Pawtuckaway. Sharp and painful low percentage moves, with little to no fun factor. Did I mention it's 7 feet tall?
Consider this posting a Public Service Bulletin. :)
By Gavin Galloway
6 days ago
Well got on this today despite reading Christians comment. I would listen to him but if you want to find out for yourself here is some bad beta if you want it. footage at 2:05