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Lemon Resevoir-Transfermation Buttress
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Bunch of Farceholds S,TR 
El Pero Loco S,TR 
Once We Were Warriors S,TR 
One Flew Over The Gooseberry Bush S,TR 
Rattus Floridus S,TR 

El Pero Loco 

M5+ PG13

   
Type:  Sport, TR, Mixed, 1 pitch, 80'
Original: M5+ PG13 [details]
FA: Steve Elder
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Steve Elder on Dec 31, 2016

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Between the cruxes on first ascent.

Description 

Climb obvious dihedral to the right of the chimney (Rattus Floridus). The first crux is the slightly overhanging section near the top of the dihedral. Easier climbing follows, then you get a second crux on a slightly overhanging wall. Finish with easier climbing to the anchor (shared with Rattus Floridus).

The anchor is accessible from the top. Hike south and down, then contour around a ledge system about 10' below the top. Keep contouring around until you see a single bolt on the small wall to your left. You can use this to get you down to the anchor which is down from the bolt at approximately a 45 degree angle to the north, with a small ledge to stand on.

Currently this is a little spicy with only 6 bolts. I may add more to make it more accessible to climbers at this grade.

Protection 

6 bolts.


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