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El Pelotero Malo 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: R. Boscarino
Page Views: 428
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Feb 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Eli at the beginning of El Pelotero Malo, soon to ...


This is a fun route with a distinct crux at the second bolt followed by some awkward balance moves out right. The difficulty eases up for the final two bolts to the anchor. You can also link this into the top half of "Pas de Bras, Pas de Nutella" for a longer pitch.


Towards the right end of the crag just past the 13a "Pas de Bras, Pas de Nutella".


6 bolts to a two bolt anchor. The bolts are pretty rusty but we were taking falls on them so they seem fine.

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By nate post
From: Silverthorne
Nov 21, 2015

This route has been extended. Now you can climb another half dozen bolts past the original anchors making this a 100 foot climb. Its well worth doing and the extension is significantly easier than 5.12. The first few bolts could stand to be replaced but they are still hanging in there. I loved this climb the first go worked me over real good but I figured it out and got my balancing act together for the redpoint on the second go.
By Eli Helmuth
From: Ciales, PR
Mar 17, 2017
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

The very rusty steel bolts were replaced 3/14/17 with titanium up to the first anchor and the upper half extension via Pas de Nutella replaced with titanium as well. All of the anchors in this zone will be replaced with titanium very soon and many of the original bolts snapped at the head when being loosened to remove due to corrosion.

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