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e) El Nopal
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Al Filo de Tus Sentimientos T 
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El Nopal 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Eduardo Mosqueda & Lilian Chavez
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: Alejandro on Nov 15, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Below the roof, about to head into the finger crac...

Description 

Awesome route with a Cactus (that's why it's called El Nopal) under the roof before the finger crux, which you can easily layback. Bouldery start with good but weird protection. Traverse a bit right to a nice hand crack and rest next to the cactus before heading up the finger crack.

Location 

Located on the main El Nopal Wall, you can easily identify this route due to the cactus below the roof. This is also the most popular rappel spot to get into the canyon. You will find a solid tree at the top with a comfortable ledge - can't miss it.

Protection 

Double from .3 to 2 Camalots. Nuts help.
1 60m rope gets you to the ground.


Photos of El Nopal Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Above cactus rest before moving into last crux mov...
Above cactus rest before moving into last crux mov...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the upper ceiling on El Nopal (basic...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the upper ceiling on El Nopal (basic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tricky start.
Tricky start.

Comments on El Nopal Add Comment
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By Gunkswest
Jan 10, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

There are two variant starts to the route, both of which make the climb independent of La Muralla de los Sentidos.

1) 5.10b/c TR - Start on a boulder a few feet right of the start described. Step up from the boulder to gain a ledge. Step right a foot or two then climb directly up the shallow corner, using face holds and the arête to gain the base of the corner with the cactus.

2) 5.10a/b - Start on a boulder a few feet right of the start described. Step up from the boulder to gain a ledge. Step right about five feet to reach a vertical crack/corner. Climb the flaring crack/corner about 10 feet until you can move left and up to gain the base of the corner with the cactus.

No matter how you start the route, El Nopal is harder than Dandelion and The Exorcist (both 10a) at Joshua Tree.
By JimC25
Feb 21, 2017
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Classic route that starts with pumpy boulder start to get the burn going and at least three different cruxes. Did on TR and could not wipe the smile off my face in between the heavy breathing. Some rest spots that come in handy when you need them before pushing on. Be careful of cactus under roof, because if you do not stem right you will get a few pins as a reminder (my partner found out the hardway). The consensus from the experienced climbers I was with is that this is easily a real 5.10.
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the cactus before making the devious and ten...
Above the cactus before making the devious and tenuous move into the finger crack.

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